Mayuki and he…

Good morning 4:20am.

North shore 3-5′ and good.

Ala Moana knee high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

No wind so perfect morning conditions.

Sun, clouds, showers, and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 when you can become a very calm and positive person, happiness will follow.  when i was 20 years old, i wish i was as calm, positive, and happy as this girl.  i was actually the total opposite.  haha…waves bigger this morning so practicing the duck dives with Oshima-san.  this is perfect!somethings you can simply explain, and somethings you have to show by example.  so as Oshima-san was paddling back out, i took off and told him “do it just like this.”  this is such a simple maneuver that takes very little effort if you’re doing it the right way.  and if you’re doing it the right way, you will see the sprays flying off the back of the board.next wave, Oshima-san takes off and i was watching from behind.then he did it!  a nice smooth cutback with sprays flying off the back of his board.  this is exactly how you do it!!!!

a very peaceful and hot and spicy lunch…

my healthy Hawaiian dinner…

Mayuki and us…

the queen’s of queen’s.  Jeannie Chesser riding Rell Sun’s surfboard.

UH Manoa.  online classes after spring break because of the Coronavirus.

the best view of DH…

Benji Brand is new to free diving so it was cool watching Seth teaching him a few things.  Seth taking out the bait to call up the sharks.  crazy when you think about it…

surfing is one thing, diving is another.  diving creates the ultimate bond between friends.  when you’re diving with your buddy, he’s the only one that can save your life.  there are no other people or lifeguards so yeah, you’re putting each others lives in each others hands.

when i look at this photo, i think about friendships.  friendships are huge to me because at the end of the day, your friends will always be by your side no matter what.  while other people come and go, true friends will never leave your side.  so maybe it’s a good time to appreciate your friendships like how these 2 kids are appreciating theirs.  and when they get older and look back at this, this photo will say a thousand words…