Eat, Sleep, Surf…

Good morning 5am.

North shore shoulder high from the North/East.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Strong trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, showers, and rainbows.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

so happy to see Tomami-san back in Hawaii.  so full of energy and so full of laughter.  we always have a great time surfing together!  check out this amazing wave and smile…when we first met in the parking lot, Tomami-san asked me where Seira-chan was.  i told her “she’s already out in the water.”  i introduced them and we had a wonderful time surfing together.  learning off one another is the key to success…when ever Seira-chan caught a wave, i told Tomami-san to watch how graceful she is and copy her.  super calm and super cool.  so the next big set comes and i say “keep calm and surf this wave just like Seira-chan.”   this is the best wave i ever saw Tomami-san catch!  i was so proud of her!so watching the girls step up a level for each other was cool to see.  keeping calm and enjoying every ride…this morning was totally empty today because i think this wind scared everybody away.  it was just us having a great time surfing really good waves.  a surprise South/East swell on this Happy Saturday!we went to lunch after and had a great talk.  Tomami-san chose to become a nurse in Japan so she could have a schedule that would let her travel the world.  and that’s exactly what she’s doing now.  it’s good for Seira-chan to meet happy people like this because she can see the results of each and everyones path in life.  then she can take all that in and find a way to live her dream life too.  so yeah, we’re all learning off each other in different ways.  and that’s super cool if you ask me…

then went straight back out to surf with Oshima-san.  another calm and cool surfer.  windy, good, and nobody out.  we all scored today!

 i went to my doctor yesterday to get a physical checkup.  he made me fill this form out.  it basically asks me if i’m depressed in different ways.  all my answers were:  Not at all  with all the coronavirus panic causing fear around the world, life goes on here in Hawaii.  Micah Moniz showing us how to fight the virus!  Seira-chan doesn’t even think about the coronavirus.  surfing and diving takes your mind of negative things happening in this world.  that’s how we live in the moment…

**according to my brother, here’s how to do a coronavirus self-check.  every morning when you wake up, take a deep breath and hold it for 10 seconds.  if you complete it without coughing or discomfort, then your lungs are free from fibrosis which means you don’t have the virus.

**how to prevent getting infected?  take small sips of water every 15 minutes.  that will wash down the virus from your throat to your stomach and kill it.

**last, don’t panic!  and don’t go out and buy up all the masks and toilet paper!  come on guys!