Look at my new Akila Aipa Twin Fin!  I can’t wait to try it!!!

Good morning 5:20am.

North shore head high and bumpy.

Ala Moana knee to waist high and offshore.

Diamond Head shoulder high and junky.

Strong trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, showers, and huge rainbows all day.

Going surfing 3 rounds.

Have a wonderful day!

last night i thought about doing something different today.  so i took Seira-chan to the North shore.  her first time at Pua’ena Point, and i even gave her a board she’s never rode before.  i told her “go out by yourself, figure it out, and connect with the ocean.  and today was the best day for that because it was empty!  look at this beautiful wave!

Seira-chan figured it out, connected, and had a wonderful session at a very cool surf spot.

before we paddled out, i thought it was going to be super crowded being a Saturday.  BUT, there were only a couple surfers and a couple foilers out.  i’ve never seen Pua’ena Point this uncrowded in my life…

had a good talk with the 2 foilers out.  this Hawaiian said there are usually 20 foilers out on a day like today.  he was so stoked to have it just for us…

as i was pumping around on my foil, Seira-chan was carving around on her shortboard.

and looking really good doing it.

clean water and heavy wipeouts for me today.  haha…

had some big swells passing us by.  it felt so good to be in an empty ocean that was so strong and alive…

lucky girl again!  i think we got the best of the best today!

it amazes me how nobody even comes close to me when i’m on my foil.  maybe they’re scared?  maybe they’re mad?  what ever it is, thank you because i love it!

when i teach people how to free dive, there is only so much i can say.  the rest is up to them how they want to connect with nature.  we’re not out there to fight the variables, we’re out there to go with it.  so if you can put your body and mind in a total calm state, you will have a great experience no matter how deep you go.  it’s not a contest, it’s all about knowing yourself, your body, and your mind.  and free diving will teach you all of that…   i always tell Seira-chan to watch and learn.  watch how i’m going down like this.  i’m not kicking hard, i’m just flowing effortlessly to the bottom.  the more you fight and use energy, the less bottom time you will have.  if you came across something like this, you would think i’m dead.  but no, i’m just taking a nap on the ocean floor looking up at the beautiful ocean sky.  it’s the most beautiful and peaceful thing in the world.  i don’t recommend you doing this just yet though.  it would freak me out!then when you wake up from your nap, start heading up very slowly.  there is no kicking here as gravity will bring you up…we saw a shark swimming around.  i was hoping for that.  so once it went into the cave, i told Seira-chan to go check it out.  not by words, but i just looked at her and she knew what i was thinking.  then she takes a beautiful decent into the deep water.  right here, as i’m taking this photo, i’m in complete awe.  here is a girl free diving for her 2nd time in her life.  she didn’t even know how to use a snorkel the other day???  now she’s in complete calmness and in total connection with the ocean.  i’ve never seen anyone catch on this fast, including my nephews…the first time my nephews saw a shark, they ran the other way and jumped back on the boat.  Seira-chan did the total opposite.  diving down 30′ so easily, greeting the shark in the cave, and coming up with an experience of a lifetime.  i use to do this at least 3x a week before.  then i stopped for a few years and no wonder i had a little stress.  haha.  i’m going back to doing this more often because this is what makes me at total peace.  and this is what i want to share with everyone.  total stress-free FREEDOM!!!we could hear the sounds of whales underwater today.  and i’m looking forward to the day we come across wild dolphins.  this girl is in a totally different world which will make her calmer, cooler, and wiser…