Magical Mt. Fuji by Toda-san…

Good morning 5am.

North shore 2-4′ and good.

New South Swell!  Ala Moana shoulder high and good.

Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Boot Camp day 2 for Tanaka-san.  every time we surf, i can see so much more confidence and so much more happiness.  it’s unbelievable that she only surfs when she comes to Hawaii.  and today was a special day.  Seira-chan was out so i introduced them.  it’s funny that Seira-chan had no idea who Tanaka-san was, but since Tanaka-san translates my blogs, she knew Seira-chan very well.  we were watching Seira-chan surf so good.  i think that gave Tanaka-san some inspiration because when the next big set came, she wanted it!  i yelled “GO” and this wave was BIG!  this is what you call commitment!  perfectly ridden and perfectly calm.  i was so stoked to see Tanaka-san doing so good!  Seira-chan told me she caught over 30 waves this morning.  so stoked to see her enjoying Hawaii to the fullest!!!the waves were big so i taught Tanaka-san how to go under the sets.  throw the board, dive under, and enjoy the ride.  haha…both these girls were happy to meet each other.  both can inspire each other in their own way.  then grow into great surfers and great people!!!then went to eat lunch with the whole Tanaka-san family.  we always have a great time!  thank you Chiyoko-san and the Tanaka-san family for the goodies!  since i can’t go to Japan for a while, i’ll enjoy Japan right here in Hawaii!

it’s funny how shy kids are when i first meet them.  i try to be friendly but sometimes it doesn’t work.  but once i get them on my surfboard, everything changes!  i try to make them feel as safe as possible, and i do my best not to traumatize them.  so we just have fun.  here is 6 year old Riyota-kun having fun!and here is 6 year old Yoshitake-kun getting ready for Natures Disneyland!  take off, stand up, scream, and enjoy the ride!  this is how to teach a kid…of the hundred or so kids i taught surfing, every single one of them loved it!  this the exact age and the exact way i learned how to surf.  so yeah, i must have worked because surfing has always been my life…thank you Akesaka-san, Ayumi-san, Yoko-san, and the kids for the wonderful morning.  i hope to see you guys surfing again…Renta-kun asked to shortboard.  and since Oshima-san was there, i thought it would be very entertaining for us!  haha.Renta-kun had a hard time in the beginning.  he asked me “how do people even stand up on this board?”  but this kid never gives up and that’s what i love about him.  he kept on trying and trying until get got a long one!  now he’s never going back to the longboard.  haha.and now Renta-kun will respect his Dad way more because Oshima-san is riding a 5’11!  it was cool watching Dad showing his son how to do it.  haha…surfing is creating a bond for these guys.  they might not know it now, but these memories will live on forever.  good job boys!style is everything.  Seira-chan is inspiring a lot of surfers.  i know that because everybody asks about her…there is no limit to this girls dreams.  with her confidence and determination, dreams are becoming reality…