when i use to catch a cold, my Mom would tell me to stay home.  but i’d sneak off to the beach anyway.  it was weird how i could be super sick, but once i jumped into the ocean, i would feel so good.  even when i get hurt, i would go into the ocean and the pain would be all gone.  and till this very day, if i’m sick, hurt, or simply having a bad day, the ocean fixes everything.  so when i saw this sign hanging on the wall in the shop in Bali, i had to get it.  and now it’s in my living room hanging on the wall reminding me how important the ocean is to me.  maybe it’s mental?  maybe it’s spiritual?  but what ever it is, i’m happy with the ocean being my natural medicine…

 was talking to the Marine Animal Rescue guy today.  he came by to check on the monk seal at Bowls.  he was telling me about climate change, killings of monk seals, and over population of turtles.  he said climate change isn’t a joke.  the higher tides make the beaches disappear so the turtles won’t have no where else to lay their eggs.  and the warm water we’ve been having translates to turning all the eggs to female.  so without any male turtles, we’re in big trouble.  it was very interesting talking to someone with so much knowledge.  and also so scary too…   Kaira getting ready for preschool.  this girl reminds me exactly of what Micah and Kelia looked like when they were kids.  she looks like both of them!  anyway, when she was walking out of the house, i noticed something strange? she had her older sisters shoes on, and they were backwards! i’ve been a very busy man recently.  but learning a lot in the process…  want to thank Mama and Papa Iwate-san for the beautiful Autumn photos from Japan.  it’s one of the most prettiest times of the year right now.  makes me want to jump on a flight right this minute!  haha…

 Mai Surfing into Winter…

Good morning 5am.

North shore 4-6′ and good.  Sunset Pro probaly ON at 8am.

Ala Moana waist high and bumpy.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

South/East winds this morning so bump on South, clean on North.

Sun, clouds, and maybe rain.

Going foiling!