I’m sorry for the things I said when I was HUNGRY…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 2-4′ and bumpy.  No Haleiwa Pro today.

Ala Moana knee high and strong offshore.

Diamond Head head high and super windy.

Strong trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, rain, and huge rainbows.

Going surfing!

Have a wonderful day!

What is Calm?  What is Cool?  This is Calm, this is Cool!   i’m super happy to see Oshima-san surfing like this.  just going with the flow…  a good surfer and a good man… What is Calm?  What is Cool?  This is Calm, this is Cool… i’m so happy to see Watanabe-san surfing like this.  just going with the flow… she told me that she wanted to try to do a cross step.  that was her goal on this trip.  so i taught her how Kelia Moniz does it, and the did it perfectly like this.  so beautiful!  came yesterday, leaving tomorrow.  another hard core surfer that loves to travel, surf, and live each day to the fullest.  safe trip home and see you again Watanabe-san!

 spent the sunset session with Takahata-san.  we did some Boot Camp training until the sun went down… imagine me taking off behind, riding, and yelling!  haha…  such a sweet wave… then i saw the set of the day coming so i started yelling “GO!!!!”  Takahata-san took off in the golden light, and looked down the endless wall… as he passed by me, i thought to myself “wow, this guy surfs so good!  it must feel so good getting off the airplane from Japan earlier in the day, then surfing the first Hawaiian sunset with a magical wave like this.”  i think that’s awesome!   we left the parking lot at dark and couldn’t have been more satisfied…  see you this weekend for more Boot Camp drills!   when i was in my 20’s, i use to celebrate my birthday in Japan, then fly back to Hawaii the same day and celebrate it again.  so yeah, i had 2 birthday parties.  so when Mai-chan celebrated her birthday in Australia, then flew that day to Hawaii and celebrated it here, i thought that was pretty funny.  Happy Birthday again girl! then we celebrated it again in the ocean.  so that’s 3 times!  haha… thank you Mai-chan for the Byron Bay cookies.  you were right!  it’s better than the Cookie Corner cookies.  so sweet…