Winter Rainbow Surfing…

 so stoked to take Tomomi-san surfing for her very first time!  this was her first wave of her life and surely not her last!  this is absolutely perfect surfing style!

 yeah, i’d be stoked too!  good job girl!

 Nishiwaki-san was up next.  a very good short boarder but today i asked him if he ever longboarded before?  he said “no.”  so i said “want to try?”  a very open minded man that wanted to take the challenge.  and just by surfing the longboard today, he’s a way better surfer for sure.

 such a cool and happy man.  willing to take the challenge and succeed…

 i would recommend to every short board surfer to take the challenge and try to longboard.  it’s super hard to do but once you figure it out, it will help your surfing skills and when you jump on your shortboard the next time, you will be surprised!  try it…

 Tomomi-san caught about 15 long rides.  can you believe she never fell not even once???  if you surf super stable like this, you won’t fall.  simple…  welcome to the new surfing world!

 such a wonderful couple!  so happy to surf with you guys today and i’m pretty sure surfing will connect you even more.  keep looking forward both in the water, and also in life…

 from the time we paddled out, there was a rainbow until the time we paddled in.  then it wound’t go away and i followed it all the way home.  so yeah, this rainbow lasted for over 3 hours!

 i’m looking for my next destination.  this home in the secluded mountain looks pretty inviting.  i feel like jumping in the snow!  can’t wait…

DON’T LOOK AT ME!!!!

 when will this Summer ever end???  i hope never… i told Alex over and over not to look at me.  the reason is because in surfing, you go where you look.  BUT… he looked right at me, in fact, he looked into my eyes and guess what?  bang!!!!  ouch!!!  omg!!!  of course he ran me right over!!! i got up and told him, “hey dude, i just want to take your photo.  you almost killed me.  don’t look at me!  he laughed and said he wouldn’t do it again.  but, i don’t believe that…  haha. between surfing, i gave up my nap time for construction time.  we are rebuilding our deck so i’ve been working pretty hard everyday.  it feels so good to make things better…  Kaira has been helping me put the old nails i pulled out of the wood in the bucket.  i use to do this when my Grandpa use to build houses.  so maybe this little girl will learn something… i turned my head and Kaira took the bucket of rusty nails into her house.  then i heard her Mom yelling “what are you doing with that???”  opps, my fault… then Joe and Kelia came by and showed me their new toy.  omg!  i want one too!!!

November 20, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

 Waiting for the perfect wave…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 2-3′ and good.  Getting bigger tomorrow.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!