Sacred Places in Hawaii.  Feel the Mana…

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore 3-5′ and perfect.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.

A perfect morning with afternoon onshore winds.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 the most important thing about surfing is to keep calm.  so today’s Boot Camp was about calmness.  exactly like this…  i had my foil today so my main focus was getting Ryu-san’s foil drone shot.  this wave started out like this… then i try to get in front because this is the photo i’m looking for. and since i trust Ryu-san for not looking at me, i get even closer because i love this angle. then pass right in front.  this is where we have to trust each other.  if one of us falls, it could be dangerous. then i pass right on by and you can see a very calm man, a very good wave, and a very cool style. then i pump past him and do 5 cutbacks, pump back out into 5 waves, and then i’m totally satisfied.  that all happens in just a few minutes… good job Doctor.  i’m super proud of your calmness today.  please be ready for more Boot Camp on Wednesday… back to Molokai.  Molokai is a place where you can just be yourself.  it’s also a place where helping each other is important.  here is Takahashi-san helping Joe put up his tent.  look at that beautiful rainbow!   then Kelia comes to help out.  this is called “team work.”   i was so happy that Takahashi-san came because he can do everything i can do, plus a lot more.  so it makes my life so much easier because i can relax much more.  thank you Takahashi-san for being a good Captain, chef, and friend… Mayo-chan’s 2nd time to Molokai and i think this girl loves it.  already planning for next year…

so happy to see Ryu-san back in Hawaii.  one of the coolest Doctor’s you will ever meet.  super smart, and super cool!   we call this Boot Camp because before the wave and after the wave, i’m yelling.  oh, and also during the ride too.  haha.  everything looking good so far… happy ride, happy Hawaii, and happy man.  another day of Boot Camp today!back to Molokai.  you won’t find another place like this in the world.  this is so magical…and when you stay at a beach house right here, it’s magical too.  Takahashi-san and Naoka cleaning the fish to perfection.  this is called “teamwork.”now this is just like a refrigerator.  eat some, share some, and take some home for dinner…Takahashi-san was a Master Chef for the kids.  when ever he would do something, i would call everybody over and say “watch and learn.”  this is better than any youtube learning video.  from the sea, to the table, to our stomachs…when you’re staying in the wild, expect the wild.  so bugs and insects are no problem.  just deal with it and if you can’t, just turn the lights down low…then look up at the stars.  you will see millions and millions twinkling all night long.  something i do every single night when i’m on Molokai.  it’s a free galaxy show that will put your mind at ease…