so happy to see Sasaki-san already back in Japan and heading to Shonan.  meeting up with Matsuo-san is like meeting a new brother.  so stoked for these surfer boys!   had a wonderful dinner with Takahashi-san and Mayo-chan last night.  good food, good talk, good laughs, and good time.  welcome back to Hawaii! went down to Waikiki again last night and enjoyed being a tourist.   then woke up early this morning and surfed with the boys again.  waves came up in town and the conditions were as perfect as it gets… Renta-kun on a good one!   Oshima-san always smiling along the way.  this is how you’re supposed to enjoy surfing! solid, stable, and strong.  one of the strongest 15 year old boy i know… Oshima-san living another dream day surfing and laughing with his son.  i’m so happy to be right on the side surfing and laughing too…

 last night i caught an Uber home and the guy got lost again!!!  how could you get lost in Hawaii?   and when Uber drivers get lost, i end up paying more!!!  OMG!   Toda-san flying high in Japan surfing that typhoon swell.  looks so fun!  when ever a typhoon passes Japan, the sky gets super clear.  and when you have a clear sky, you have the most amazing sunrises!  thank you Toda-san for the sunshine… Santa dropped off some gifts at my house today.  one was a new foil wing!   and another was a new iPhone!  i must have been a good boy recently.  haha… where ever you look, you will see the Hawaiian movement.  and it’s good to see the Hawaiian’s standing their ground these days because if they don’t, all our islands will look like Waikiki… good to see my little Hawaiian grand-nephew Mateus back at my house yesterday.  i was super tired but never too tired to play with this happy boy…

Loving the surfers life…

Good morning 6am.

North shore head high and perfect.

Ala Moana knee to waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head waist to chest high and fun.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!