Kitahama-san is on Boot Camp Day 3 and compared to Day 1, he’s riding bigger, stronger, and happier. all he wanted was to ride bigger and bigger waves. and today was pretty big!
when you see movies with Sergeant’s running along their soldiers and yelling instructions, that’s kind of what i do. so you can imagine me yelling right here. “bend you knees and keep low!” haha..
as for Lisa-chan, i just have to tell her something on the beach and she will remember exactly what to do. a very smart girl.
look at this photo closely. you can see Lisa-chan riding and you can also see the beautiful reef under her. i love it!
a happy day for a happy girl…
for our last wave, we went outside and waited for the biggest wave of the day. and when Kitahama-san caught it, he was in for the ride of his life!
and to end off Boot Camp with a beautiful cross step. i’m glad i didn’t miss moments like this. i get to see it from front and back.
a very smart man with very good surfing skills. thank you guys for the Boot Camp and smiles…
Team Fuji is heading to Indonesia! hope you guys didn’t feel that big earthquake yesterday… please be safe.
when my nephews were kids, they use to come to my house and borrow everything. and of course i would let them use it. so now they are all successful young adults, it’s my turn to go borrow stuff from them. haha. i went to Seth’s house and borrowed a surfboard. thanks Seth!
then i came home and went to Micah’s house to borrow his new toy. he just got this Akila Aipa twin fin and loves it. so now Uncle Kirby is going to try it tomorrow and i’m sure i will love it too. and if it works good, i won’t return it. haha. thanks Micah!
omg, i can’t believe how good this plate of ham is! 
Seira-chan got the sandwich and loved it. 
this past March, the waves and weather was so junky so we surfed Diamond Head almost everyday. it was pretty stormy, tiny, and cold. so pulling up to Diamond Head yesterday, Seira-chan was so happy to finally see how good this spot actually gets. 
i just sat in the inside and watched her do what she does best, which is to connect with board and wave. just like this…
super smooth and very cool surfer style. 
my friend Barry is the happiest surfer in the world. i can hear this guy screaming from my house! haha. that’s what makes me want to surf out there. i love happy people… here is Barry passing by screaming my name and giving me a high five! 
if you can smile while taking a drop on a wave, then you’re in a wonderful place. you will see and feel the beauty 10x more than if you don’t smile… 
and if you can glide across the ocean and spread your wings, you’re in a good place. so yeah, i’m a very happy man… 
surfing with this girl everyday has been a treat. she listens, she tries, she practices, she goes with the flow, and most of all, she looks forward. not only in the water, but in life too. so surfing with her is like surfing with an angel… 
“This is my happy place.” Seira-chan loves Hawaii and everything about it. she lived the local style life for the past month and a half and completely fell in love with it. i know she will be sad when she gets on the airplane and leaves Hawaii. BUT, i told her “there’s no reason to be sad. Hawaii will always be here for you. just focus on completing college and then all your dreams will come true.” it’s so crazy but i know what ever this girl dreams, it will come true for sure. i’m not a fortune teller, but i just know she will be in a Happy Place forever…
The perfect takeoff: Full commitment!
