Last wave for Takami-san at Bowls.  Photo taken by my foil drone…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and fun.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and hot.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

this is how i almost lost my gopro yesterday.  the floaty came off when i was riding a wave.  and i still can’t believe i found it on the bottom of this huge ocean… Toda-san said he caught a wave that was like Uluwatu!  this must have been it?  haha… as for me, i was on my foil checking out the barrels at Bowls.   i tried to pull into one of them and almost!!!  got my head wet but that’s about it.  next time i’m getting in!   do you know how scary and dangerous it is to pull into a barrel?  yeah, please don’t remind me because i’m trying to be calm… i was thinking about teaching Seira-chan how to foil.  and i think she will be able to do it so easily… but for now, she’s having too much fun surfing so i don’t want to see her go through the frustrations we did when learning how to foil.  haha..    life is really good for all of us.  Toda-san and i know how to enjoy life and this beautiful world.  so now we have to teach it to the next generation…  before i move on, check out our early morning session today!!!  the waves were going off again and Seira-chan was ripping!   i was kind of bummed that i couldn’t go to the Surf Ranch to see Seth surf.  but Tony and my brother are there so i’m getting instant updates.  here is Seth surfing the fake wave like a real one… there are 2 barrel sections so this wave is made for Seth.  i’m pretty sure he will get the deepest barrels of the competition.  i feel sorry for the big guys…   i always believed that Seth would be good at what ever he does.  so to see him rated higher than 11x World Champion on the WCT tour, i’m not surprised at all.  i knew this day would come.  and i know Kelly Slater isn’t as happy as i am.  haha…

yes everybody, huge news when Shun Murakami beat Kelly Slater in the ISO Games in Miyazaki.  good boy Shun!  and thank you Shin-san for the happy news… somebody asked me where we got this opihi from.  i told him “you could be my best friend, you can even be my girlfriend, but i will never tell you where we got these opihi from.  never….”  haha… at our dream palace, there was a candle with a lighter next to it.  so i figure it’s getting dark so i should light up the candles… i try over and over to light it and it wouldn’t light!  there was even black smoke coming from the candle.  something seemed weird…. come to find out, these were fake candles!  it was the battery ones that light up when you turn on the switch!  haha…   i felt pretty stupid after because i didn’t even know these kind of candles existed.  and why was there a lighter next to it???  if somebody took a video of me trying to light it up, that would have been pretty funny.   got home and was craving for sweets!  then i remembered Seira-chan baked a cream cheese pie and gave me a piece!   omg, it was so delicious!  thank you Seira-chan! imagine going on your first boat trip and it’s in Hawaii.  and imagine jumping off the boat into an empty lineup with perfect waves.  don’t imagine anymore because this is not a dream! i’m trying to teach Seira-chan how to surf different spots.  how to find the waves, how to read the waves, and how to connect with the waves.  she couldn’t have done a better job at Three’s… and i’m also trying to teach her how to grab any surfboard and be able to ride it from the first wave.  the trick is to connect with your board because the board can’t connect to you.  simply done… hope you liked your first boat trip.  many more to come…