afternoon delight with Mom and Daughter.  it doesn’t get any better than this… i took Iuchi-san to the outside and she paddled into some pretty big waves and rode it all the way in… 2 years ago when i took Iuchi-san and Seira-chan surfing, Seira-chan was just a beginner.  now, she surfs like she’s been surfing for a very long time.   i’m pretty sure Mom was super proud of watching her daughter surfing with confidence… and i’m sure Seira-chan was stoked to see Mom charging big waves!  these are the kind of photos you print out and put on your wall.   i like to follow this girl because i can see every little detail of her surfing.  and when everything is looking perfect like this, i’m just smiling the whole way… this is the rewards of coaching.  just riding along and watching your rider surfing like a professional… yes, i’m a very happy coach!   surfed into sunset, and also to the rising full moon…  thank you ladies… we ate at Panda because we love Panda.  had a wonderful talk and now i know why Seira-chan is so smart and responsible.  it’s because she was raised that way…  have a wonderful flight home Iuchi-san.  hope your 29 hour stay in Hawaii was wonderful.  keep on surfing and keep on living your life to the fullest! this was my fortune!  YOUR LUCK CHANGES TODAY!  right when i read this, something crazy happened!  i’ll tell you about that tomorrow… i learned how to free dive to survive.  now i free dive to live.  and it’s life like this that teaches me how precious the ocean is.  take care of her, and she will take care of you…

Yesterday evening was totally amazing!  Perfect new South Swell!!!

Good morning 5:45am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Light trade winds at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing 3 rounds.

Have a wonderful day!

so fun to surf with the boys this morning.   from his first wave, Nakagami-san was super calm and super cool… i try to do my best to get that special moment.  sometimes we connect, sometimes we don’t.  this time, everything couldn’t have been any more perfect as Tatsu-san was taking off on this beautiful wave of the day… can you believe this is Bowls???  it looks more like Backdoor!   we have a great time riding different boards, and trying our best to improve out skills.  every experience will make you a better surfer… and when you have a magic board, you will have a magic life… thank you boys for Day 1 Boot Camp!  you guys were ripping today! then took out the ladies for afternoon Boot Camp… Seira-chan’s Mom flew to Hawaii for just one day.  arrived this afternoon and already caught the wave of her life!  people think she’s crazy for coming to Hawaii just for a day, but i think she’s living her life to the fullest.  Iuchi-san, i don’t think you’re crazy, i think you’re fabulous for enjoying this precious day with your daughter.  days like today are totally priceless…full moon from the Bowls parking lot.  what a great time to paddle in and see this… Toda-san is like i was last year.  spend all your money and buy everything that has to do with foiling.  haha…