Crazy and Living the Day!

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so fun to surf with the boys this morning.   from his first wave, Nakagami-san was super calm and super cool… i try to do my best to get that special moment.  sometimes we connect, sometimes we don’t.  this time, everything couldn’t have been any more perfect as Tatsu-san was taking off on this beautiful wave of the day… can you believe this is Bowls???  it looks more like Backdoor!   we have a great time riding different boards, and trying our best to improve out skills.  every experience will make you a better surfer… and when you have a magic board, you will have a magic life… thank you boys for Day 1 Boot Camp!  you guys were ripping today! then took out the ladies for afternoon Boot Camp… Seira-chan’s Mom flew to Hawaii for just one day.  arrived this afternoon and already caught the wave of her life!  people think she’s crazy for coming to Hawaii just for a day, but i think she’s living her life to the fullest.  Iuchi-san, i don’t think you’re crazy, i think you’re fabulous for enjoying this precious day with your daughter.  days like today are totally priceless…full moon from the Bowls parking lot.  what a great time to paddle in and see this… Toda-san is like i was last year.  spend all your money and buy everything that has to do with foiling.  haha…

when i asked Toda-san if he wanted to go to the Big Island, he kind of hesitated because he hasn’t been there before.  next time, there will be no hesitation because we connected with nature and swam into the coolest thing on the planet.  i can’t wait to go back…
KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide