Toda-san:  Foilmaster…

Good morning 5:45am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

 it’s always so fun to take a family out surfing.  Nagaishi-san and i surfed before but it was our first time with his kids.  their first time ever!  Toma-kun is only 10 years old and full of confidence.  he didn’t want to use reef boots and didn’t need a rash guard.  he did it Hawaiian Style!  check out his first wave of his life!!! after a kids first wave, i always like to see the expression.  you will either like it, or love it.  in this case, love it! Miyu-chan is only 8 years old and always smiling.  she was smiling from the time i picked them up till the time i dropped them off.  and even smiling on her very first wave of her life.   this little girl was so calm and so happy.  she wanted more and more… so we rode more and more.  in the end, the kids caught about 13 waves each.  but Miyu-chan said, probably more than that… Toma-kun had the perfect surfer stance.  bend your knees, look forward, and arms up.  perfect! while Papa Nagaishi-san was on the outside, the kids and i were watching him ride the waves all the way in.  it was so cool watching this family enjoy the beautiful ocean together like this… then i paddled to the outside and Nagaishi-san was catching the sets.  long walls and long rides… i was riding in front and in back with my 11’0 longboard.  i was kind of dangerous.   haha…good job Miyu-chan.  your smile really made my morning a great one… and good job Toma-kun.  your bravery made my morning greater than great… i always want a photo with the family.  i keep these precious memories in my heart, and in my blog.  both filled with memories of a lifetime… we went to eat Cafe Kaila and couldn’t believe how much we all ate!  the pancakes are huge!!!   good job guys on the surfing, and eating…

next time i go to Japan, i’m going to go to Nagaishi-san’s ramen shop in Chigasaki!  i’ll look up the address and let you know.  then maybe we can all meet there!  see ya!

it’s my goal to teach someone to be able to paddle out to any spot in the world and be calm and comfortable.  it doesn’t matter how big or what the conditions are, you just have to adjust to the situation.  pretty easy to do if you’re calm, and impossible to do if you’re not.  Seira-chan is progressing pretty fast in any type of conditions…   gosh, it’s so cool to watch flawless surfing. this is where you want your arms.  and this is how bent you want your knees.  all the power is going to come off the rail if you push with your back foot.    yes, keep both knees bent at all times.  if you over extend it, you will lose speed and power… and the most important thing to remember is to enjoy the ride like this!  i see some surfers trying to kill the wave, but i encourage flowing with it.  a perfect example of how to smile and flow.  good job Seira-chan! on the opposite extreme, local boy Lance Hookano likes to kill the wave.   so if you see him coming at you like this, you better paddle away as fast as you can. Lance is an expert surfer so i trust him 100% that he won’t hit me.  so i just have to stick my camera up and he will adjust his maneuver to get the shot.good ripping Lance.  no smiles here…  haha…