always good to see Lance Hookano.  coolest Hawaiian ever!  pretty scary too.  haha.. and look at scary Mateus!  haha.  i told him to give me his scary face and this is it.  the funniest kid in the world. i can’t believe how perfect this Summer has been.  Seira-chan got the worst winter back in March, so i’m sure she’s enjoying each and every day in one of the best Summers ever… look how perfect the waves were!  if you have the right board on the right day, you will have the right time of your life… and when you keep calm, you will flow with the ocean.  then all you have to do is enjoy the ride… without my foil, i would never be able to get photos like this.  it’s very challenging to get an angle like this, but it’s worth the effort… and all you have to do is ride a wave, then i’ll fly to find you.  just keep calm when i’m passing you by because i don’t want you hitting me… keeping calm…and keeping cool… great job Seira-chan!  and thank you so much for baking some banana bread!  it was the perfect snack after a perfect session!  keep on surfing, and keep on baking!  haha…

Today:  Hot?  Wow!  First time I saw this!

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.  Coming up later today.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

Light winds so good conditions.

Sunny and hot!

Watching WCT Tahiti and going surfing after.

Have a wonderful day!

who told everybody that the waves were good yesterday???  seemed like everybody knew today!  but hey, let’s all enjoy it together!    it’s been a crazy road to foiling.  when i first started, i was so frustrated that i was going to fly to Maui and pay $400 for a lesson.  back then, if somebody told me i can do an off the lip one year later, i would have bought him a brand new car!  but since i didn’t have to pay that somebody that kind of money, i can buy more foils!  haha…i’ve been teaching Seira-chan how to be calm.  so i’m flying right by her on my foil and she’s been pretty calm compared to other people.  haha.  i keep on telling her that “calm is cool.”   and if you want to study how to be calm, watch rookie Seth Moniz surf huge dangerous surf against the worlds best.  when he was matched up with World #1 Filipe Toledo, i knew he was going to win.  why?  because Seth can beat anybody in real waves like today.  sorry Filipe… “calmness and coolness equals greatness!”  Seth knows that very well… so as the clock was ticking down to one of the biggest upsets of the contest, i was yelling and screaming from my house.  i couldn’t be neither calm, or cool.  haha…something that bothered me was how close the boats in the channel were.  i hope they back off tomorrow because it would suck if a competitor gets hurt right after he gets the wave of his life.  close call for Seth… yeah Coach Rainos.  sorry i couldn’t be with you this time.  i actually looked for a flight just now but i wouldn’t make it there in time.   i’ll be watching all day tomorrow… Seth not only won, he dominated!  Filipe Toledo had zero chance the whole heat!  tomorrow morning is finals day and the waves should be good.  i’m watching this for sure!  Go Seth Moniz!