i gave Seira-chan 2 options this morning. AM with lots of people, or PM in a peace. and she chose PM. i knew it would be empty and i knew the waves were going to be perfect. why? because of the tide, wind, swell, and crowd. it was freaking paradise!
and since it was Seira-chan’s first time riding this board, i told her to take it slow and adjust to the board. she already knows that surfboards don’t adjust to people. haha. adjust and enjoy the ride!
if you had a longboard today, you would have been in heaven!
super long perfect rides until your legs start hurting.
and if you’re a foiler, you’re in double paradise! Carter always encourages Seira-chan, and he always speaks English to her too. super good guy to have around and have fun with…
by the way, a lady surfer i know just paddles out and says to me “you better not come near me with that foil!” then she paddled right in front of me and tried to catch the wave i waited 15 minutes for. i should have told her “if you don’t want me to come near you with my foil, then you should stay away from me!” BUT, i kept silent, kept on foiling, and she caught her next wave in. Seira-chan, Carter, and i had the dream session, and she had a nightmare one. haha…
i was on my foil too and this is the photo i was hoping for! good surfing and good feeling girl!
yeah, look how crowded Bowls was!!! haha… you lucky girl!
lots of surfers don’t understand that trying all different kinds of surfboards will make you a better surfer. you have to be able to adapt to it because it won’t adapt to you. and once you figure that out, you can ride anything!
last ride of the perfect afternoon. good waves, only a couple people, and amazing rides!
when i was 20 years old, my life wasn’t half as good as Seira-chan’s. i use to take everything for granted, but this girl appreciates every single moment. and that’s how you live a very happy life…
so funny to see Toda-san addicted to foiling. and now he got Matsu addicted too! a very expensive, dangerous, and frustrating sport! 
i think Matsu will get good the fastest from all of us, just because of the fact that he always Looks Forward! 
gosh, i wish i could foil with you boys! that spot looks the the perfect place!!! 
this board was given to Kelia Moniz by Steph Gilmore in Bali. i brought it back from Bali, dropped it off to Kelia, and now i got it back. i wanted to try it just on a few waves… so out to Kewalo’s!
this board is only 5’1 and is made for a girl that weights a lot less than me. so padding was kind of hard, but once i got up, i was surprised how fast it went.
not only fast, but very easy to control.
and if you can whip a turn like this and throw big sprays off the board, it means that it’s magic! thank you Kelia for letting me try it. i better return it to you before i end up keeping it. haha.
last, there are lots and lots of sea urchin like this at almost every surf spot. so when i tell you not to stand on the reef, i really mean it. and if you end up getting this in your foot, don’t panic because simply soaking your foot in vinegar for 40 minutes will fix it. remember to always keep calm…
Morning exercise: Dancing on the Water…
