i read this book 1Q84 about 7 years ago.  the timing couldn’t have been any more crazy because during those years, i actually felt like i was living in two worlds.  and that’s what that book was about.  anyway, after a night of having a lot of champagne, whisky, and tequila with friends,  i came home to write a blog.  i was drunk, happy, and didn’t know which world i was really in.  anyway, i wrote a crazy blog i regretted the next day, so i deleted it.  then yesterday i came home noticed the blog was mysteriously posted again!!!!  7 years later!!!  omg!  that’s so weird.  so i deleted it again and i hope it never reappears.  a world with 2 moons?   believe it or not, i believe something is very strange in the world i live in.  either that or somebody is haunting me.  and i think i know who that is!  good to catch up with you my friend.  missed you lots…. bumped into my friend Ross Meyers yesterday.  i always admired his style because he was the ultimate soul surfer.  i’ve been trying to teach Seira-chan about where her left hand and arm should be.  so maybe by looking at this, it will be easier to explain.  off the bottom turn, you want your left arm to be exactly like this.  it’s pulling the rest of your body towards it. and when your left arm is raised like this, your board will follow. the higher your left arm goes vertical, so will your board.   then the transition of coming back down.  turn that arm down and your board will follow.  then the sprays will fly off your rail.  pretty simple when you look at it right?  thanks Randy! as for me, my left arm is always pointed exactly to where i want to go.  this is simple surfing that will make you go the right way.  please try it! went to Kelia’s house and saw her twin fin she got from World Champion Stephanie Gilmore.   so i brought it home and will try it myself.  i’m sure this board will be magic!  Arai-san was showing me his slippers he bought in Japan.  it was the exact same slippers i buy here in Hawaii but there was a stamp on the back.  he paid $28 for that slippers.   i paid $4 for mine and it’s the exact same slipper.  gosh, that was an expensive stamp!   another day of coming home to a beautiful Moniz Princess… good to see the kids having fun in Waikiki.  surfing instead of video games…i’ve been watching the Little League World Series and Hawaii is doing great!  they are in the finals this weekend.  and Japan is in the other finals so if they both win this weekend, they will play each other for the World Series Championship.  if either one wins, i’d be equally happy.   and so happy to see the kids representing the Mauna…

Yesterday@Ala Moana Bowls:  Another day, another barrel…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and hot.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

the swell didn’t get at big as it was supposed to, but it was big enough for all the rippers to be surfing at the best spot on the South Shore, which was Bowls!!!

Greg Nakamura catches more waves than any one else out there.  always at the right spot…

good to see Mickey Bruneau out there.  super cool guy i’ve known since he was 15 years old.

seen Kahea Hart do a pretty nice off the lip.  this is how you want it to look like from the back.

longboard chicks out enjoying the long walls.

Makua Rothman snapping it back.

than it was Seira-chan’s turn.  it was her first experience at real Bowls and it was really hard to catch a wave with all the aggressive guys out.  but she did good!

if you watch how the Professionals surf Bowls, you will learn a lot.  watch where they catch the wave from, watch how the set up for their first bottom turn, and watch how they attack the sections.  it looks easy but it’s actually pretty hard…

then interpret everything and repeat it.  Go-Seira-chan!

i was riding behind just watching how beautiful this wave was.  it was a perfect wave at Bowls for a perfect turn.

i wasn’t yelling anything from behind because everything was looking super good.

this is where you have to make the spit second decision on where to hit the lip.  timing is everything.

hit it now!!!  good job Seira-chan!  i know it was frustrating at times dealing with the crowd this morning.  please don’t get discouraged because i deal with that everyday.  haha.  just go out, keep calm, and Mother Nature will send waves to you.  and if that doesn’t happen, you can have all mine.  see you tomorrow morning for another aggressive session.  in the end, it will make you a stronger and better surfer…