i have a dive flag on my boat when ever i’m swimming or free diving.  and the law states that any other boats must say at least 50 feet away from a boat that has a dive flag like this.  the reason is so you don’t run over somebody coming up from a free dive or scuba dive…   so the last time i went free diving off Waikiki, i had my dive flag up, and i was diving well within 50′ of my boat.  i took a drop and was stalking dinner… i stayed down for 2 minutes trying to think what kind of fish i wanted.  unfortunately, dinner had to wait because i was running out of breath.     i started to surface and i felt something weird.  it was like a big dark shadow was over me.  maybe a big shark again???    nope!  it was much worst!!!!some freaking asshole was driving his catamaran right over me with 2 outboard motors full throttle!   i had to duck under the 40′ catamaran to keep the motors from ripping my body up like ground meat.  all this time, i had no idea my gopro was running so when i got home and seen the video, it was much more closer than i thought.   i came up and yelled to the boat that just ran me over “what the fuck!!!  fuck you!!!  fuck you!!!!”  excuse my language but when i’m about to die from somebody’s stupidity, i’m more than pissed off!  if i were on land, i would have shot the guy with my spear gun in a second.   the guy didn’t even stop too see if i was ok!  so pissed!  omg, that was just another close call on my life.  i was freaking out that i could have died, but i was still focused on dinner.  took my final dive and took a shot at this fish and missed.  i wasn’t too bummed because something was telling me that it wasn’t the time for the fish to die, neither me too.  so yes, life can just end in a freak accident like this.  and it’s scary to know that one of my dive friends died like this just a couple years ago.  i know exactly which boat ran me over and when i see the captain, i’m going to punch him in the face and say “you almost killed me so you’re lucky with just a punch!”  i guess i’m still a little upset because that could have been the last day of my dream life.  and that would have sucked….

Another beautiful Tandem Ride…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana head high with overhead sets.  Super good.

Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

 had to go to the North Shore to pick up a bunch of new boards.  so, stopped by my favorite egg shop!  you won’t find a fresher egg than this on Oahu.  sukiyaki and raw egg over rice all week!  yeah!lucky me! then stopped by Maui Mike’s for the best chicken on the island.  never frozen and always juicy! then to the dark room.  routine blood tests and exams for people my age.  in a week, i’ll know if i have cancer or not… i’ve grew up and lived in Hawaii for over 50 years.  so yes, i’ve seen all the changes that’s happened here.  some i liked, and some i disliked.  it’s my opinion and only my opinion.  for the next generation of kids, i don’t preach or make them take sides.  i just take them along and let them see things with their own eyes.  then they will grow up and make their own judgement.  which ever it is, i will respect 100%.

as a surfer, the thing that most use to upset me was when white people from the mainland would come here and buy multi million dollar beachfront properties.   then they think they automatically own the beach too.  no i’m not a racist, but this is true and if you live on the island, you will know what i’m talking about.  i’ve gotten asked to leave beaches thought out my life and i never did.  why?  because there is a law that protects our oceans.  absolutely no beach in Hawaii can be bought for any amount of money.  done…so when my friend sends me this video of this lady trying to kick off a guy on the beach where he was fishing, i got upset again.  she told him she has guests coming over to her rental so he has to leave.  this happens all the time and i’m glad this Hawaiian didn’t move.  instead, he posted this video.  it’s not about hate, it’s about educating the local peoples rights, and it’s about educating that no beach on any island is private.  so if you come from other parts of the world and think you can simply buy a beach front property and own the beach, sorry it doesn’t work that way.  i hope this never happens again because as a surfer, it makes me upset.  next time i go to Hawaii island, i’m going to fish on this beach and sunbath naked.  haha!