Happy Japanese Birthday Boy!!!

since this kid is so special, i made another birthday party for Mateus at my house!  so yeah, he got 2 birthdays!  or maybe even more?  haha.

the Moniz boys were very cute growing up, but i don’t remember them being this cute?   haha.  Mateus finished his first week in school and i asked him “are you getting in trouble already?”  he said “yeah.”  i said “why?”  he said “because me and my friends don’t listen to the teacher.”  haha…  how can a teacher be mad at this kid?  just look at his haircut and it will make you laugh.  haha…

then we opened Japanese presents.  Mateus wants to thank Masae-san for the book of Japanese cars and trucks!

and Mateus wants to thank Seira-chan for the Japanese snacks.  here’s one more tooth cavity for this boy.  haha…

back to yesterday’s ceremony.  Seira-chan got 6th place in the finals which is awesome!  i was so proud of her to even make the final because all the other girls were super good surfers.  next year we only go forward!

getting a lei is the Hawaiian way…

and the finalist got some good prizes from Shiho-chan and her sponsors…

i asked Seira-chan “do you know who Shiho is?”  she said “no.”  haha.  i guess Seira-chan is too young and pure.  for those of you who don’t know, Shiho is one of the most famous super models in Japan.  i would compare her to someone like Cindy Crawford…

meet the finalists for the Women’s International Division!  good job girls!

for the men’s division, i was so stoked to see Ryo Kubota in the finals!!!  good job Ryo!!!

this was a very good experience for this very young girl.  i’m sure she will use it to make her future even more promising because this girl only LOOKS FORWARD!

such an amazing day in Waikiki!  happy surfing, happy waves, and happy faces.  congratulations to all the competitors again.  just to surf Queen’s for 25 minute heats with only 5 other surfers is a dream in itself…

i had to park my car 30 minutes away and there was no way i was going to skateboard in the blazing sun.  instead, i booked an Uber and a big black Cadillac Escalade came to pick me up.  i thought i was a movie star!  haha…  this is me and my new foil board going home.  everybody went home happy…

August 20, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Tandem@Queens…

Good morning 6:15am.

Ala Moana chest high and coming up.  Overhead by this afternoon.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.  Double overhead by tomorrow.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Duke’s Oceanfest: International Division Presented by SHIHO

there is a healthy shop right down my street that i pass every single day.  this morning, i decided to start off my day healthy…  a Molokai smoothie and avocado kale taco…

this meal was so healthy that i was still super hungry when i finished.  haha.  so i basically paid $17 for a snack…

then met Seira-chan down in Waikiki.  i took her past the security up to my secret spot.  from here, you can see everything!

i use to sit up here during contests and count waves.  then i’d go down, surf my heat, and come back up before my next heat.  nobody else knew where i was.  haha…

welcome to the Duke’s Ocean Fest!  there was a rumor yesterday that one girl came all the way from Japan to surf this contest.  yeah, that girl was Seira-chan!

i think one of my friends went down early in the morning and set up a tent for us.  haha.  we were so lucky to have front row shade all day!

right when we got there, the foiling division went out.  this was the final and all the best foilers on the island were in it.  i was pretty exited to watch the level everybody is at.  but in my mind, i kind of knew who would win…

yup, the oldest guy in the division won!  i knew that experience will pay off today because nobody surfed Queen’s more than this man.  congratulations Leleo Kinimaka for conquering all the young boys!  i was so happy to see that!

then it was young Seira-chan’s turn.  all i told her to do was catch a lot of waves, have fun, and DON’T FALL!!!   and because this girl listens to everything, she did that and advanced to the FINALS!!!

gosh, i’d be nervous if i was a young girl surfing a contest in Hawaii against Japanese women that live here and surf every day…  i couldn’t believe how aggressive everybody was!!!  i was watching in my binoculars laughing so loud.  the women were more aggressive than the men!!!  haha…

in the water is aggression which is ok, but out of the water is happiness like this.  congratulations to all the Japanese women for an amazing performance today!

and thank you Shiho-chan for always being so sweet to my friends.  you put on a great contest today!

the awards ceremony photos coming tomorrow.   it’s not even dark but it’s time for bed.  goodnight…