it’s been so long since i surfed at Queens! so yes, as much as Seira-chan was excited, so was i. that is the most photogenic spot in the world!
and also one of the most aggressive spot in the world too. i took off on one wave and there were 5 guys in front of me, and 3 guys in the back. crazy!
i gave a short talk to Seira-chan about the lineup, wave, reef, and crowd. and just like that, she figured it out on her own. i just sat in the channel and watched her catch wave after wave. look how beautiful it was!
Queen’s is one of the best longboard spot in Hawaii and these girls will have 25 minutes to themselves per heat. just that is a dream!
Seira-chan is using my magic board so i feel like she will do very good. magic board and magic calmness is a great combination for success…
i went out, rode a 11’0 longboard, and blocked a few waves for Seira-chan. this is how i guarantee you will get good waves anywhere if you’re with me! haha.
it took a day to make a few adjustments in weight distribution and where your arms should be. this is the perfect example of what i want to see…
i haven’t been this golden black since i was 13 years old. too much sun and too much fun!
there is no parking in Waikiki so i had to park really far and ride my skateboard. but on the way back, i hitched a ride from Seira-chan. this was the first time she’s done this but we use to do this all the time before. but that was in high school. haha…
finally, my Sister has been traveling a lot and enjoying her life. after raising 5 amazing kids, she well deserves it. so when i found out she was at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, i wasn’t surprised at all.
and this is the first barrel of my Sisters life! the video was amazing! so proud of my Sister Tammy Moniz for living out her dreams, and getting barreled while doing it. it’s in the family blood sis! keep on going!
and on the other side of the Pacific Ocean, Seth Moniz is getting barreled in Tahiti. such a good representation of Hawaii and Japan. Protect Mauna Kea and Mount Fuji! good boy Seth!
My ride to Waikiki. Duke Festival ON! See you there!
Round 1: met the coolest kid this morning. Musashi-kun surfed a few times in Hawaii before but today was the biggest he’s tried. after a few waves in the inside, i knew he was ready for the big sets!
and every wave, every smile…
this are the kind of photos i’m looking to get. but nobody knows the risks of trying to get a super nice photo like this. i have to position myself really close to get a full frame shot like this. and yes, it looks very calm and perfect at this moment…
than all it takes is one slip of the board and the danger begins…
have you ever had a 11′ hard surfboard hit you in the head?
i have many times and maybe that’s why my memory is so bad these days…
but as i teach everyone, if you fall, get back up and try again. great time surfing with you today Musashi-kun! and you almost got to see a local vs. local fight today too! you lucky boy!
Round 2: then it was surfing with the Oshima-san boys. first was Papa on a beauty!
the waves were super good again this afternoon. photos don’t lie…
Ojiro-kun wanted to surf with us today so i threw a board in the truck last minute. smaller board than normal, and much bigger waves than normal. it was the first time i seen this kid a little nervous.
but once he caught a set, he popped right up and turned to the right. it was amazing!!!
then Renta-kun popped up and surfed 2x better than yesterday. he was flying!
and he was smiling…
the great reward of teaching surfing is watching the kids grow. growing up into fine young men that love the ocean. i’m so happy to be a part of their lives…
Round 3: it’s contest day tomorrow so i took Seira-chan out to Queen’s to practice. it was her first time surfing there so there was a lot to learn. and omg, the surf was amazing!!! the most beautiful photos posting soon. 3 rounds at 6 hours in the hot sun again so my brain is waterlogged. goodnight for now…
