back to Round 2 yesterday: so happy to see Renta-kun back in Hawaii! i’ve been taking this kid surfing for many years and now he’s a 15 year old boy that has a body of a man!
more power, and lots more confidence. this kid use to be nervous in the ocean, but not anymore…
so stoked to see him surfing and enjoying the surfers life just like his Papa…
and smiling the whole time, just like his Papa…
Papa Oshima-san knows how to be confident and calm. making drops like this super easy…
and the perfect bottom turn. look at the spray coming off the surfboard. this is what you want to see.
great surfing Oshima-san! such a good example for your son!
Renta-kun started to figure it out and once he did, he could ride big waves like his Papa…
surfing can be very dangerous and for that reason, i’m pretty strict with my students. we’re not surfing in the inside and catching 2 inch swells because that’s no challenge. we’re actually on the outside surfing real waves with real locals. so yes, i’m always trying my best to keep it safe and respectful. BUT, sometimes, there will be an accident just like this. i saw it happening before it even happened. and when it did, i made sure Renta-kun was ok. how? i just look at his face and then i’ll know. thankfully, he was smiling so that means he’s ok…
next, i’ll look to see how mad my local friend is. if you surf Bowls, you probably seen this local yelling at guys, chasing people in, and even fighting. luckily we’ve been friends for 30 years so he would never hurt any one of my students. maybe scare them, but never hurt them…
then last, i will paddle by and apologize to the local because no matter what happened, it’s always going to be my fault. it’s my responsibly to teach my students manners and respect. i think this is the most important part of surfing that people forget. anyway, i apologized to my friend, and i’m sure Renta-kun learned a lot today. and this is the reason i tell all my students not to surf Bowls without me because if i wasn’t there, things would have turned out much differently. it’s a scary thought. but this day, luckily we all went home happy and safe…

Salina @ Black and White Ala Moana Bowls…
Round 1: Seira-chan @ Bowls. good practice, good riding, and good waves…
if you can turn a longboard as good as this, you will be ripping a shortboard no problem.
all we did today was practice for the contest that’s happening on Monday. it’s the Duke Festival in Waikiki!!! i’m pretty sure Seira-chan will do good!
Round 2: Oshima-san and Renta-kun @ Bowls. too many good photos that i will post very soon…
Round 3: Hattori-san at Bowls. high tide, long ride, and sunset…
i’ve been waiting and waiting to get a photo of Hattori-san cross stepping and i finally got it on his last day! this is a very cool photo!
surfed into sunset…
good to see my friends Russ out there. we’ve been friends since 12 years old and this is one of the guys that taught me how to “don’t walk away from anyone no matter how big they are, just fight him, beat him up, and run away.” haha. Russ in one of the nicest guys you will ever meet but if you get him mad, you better run for your life. i’ve seen him in action many times before and it wasn’t a pretty ending for the other guy…
last wave for Hattori-san. he caught 25 waves today so that means he rode over a hundred waves this week!!! that’s crazy…
i don’t think there is anyone else on the island that spent more time in the ocean than me this Summer. again, i spent 3 rounds and well over 6 hours today in the hottest Summer we’ve ever seen. tomorrow will be the same thing so if you don’t get replies from your texts and emails, please understand… i’m going to sleep after i sing Happy Birthday again to Matues…. goodnight….
