thank you to the Tanaka-san family for amazing snacks!  yeah, somen!!!   and thank you to the Koutaki-san family for the dental care.  i promise i’ll brush and floss 2x daily! and thank you to the Aida-san family for the treats.  i have no idea what’s in these boxes but i’m looking forward to opening it and trying it all!   Jun-kun is a 16 year old kid that goes to school in Canada.  i was talking to him in English yesterday and he understood everything!   and he understood exactly what to do when i yelled “stand up!!!”   it was Jun-kun’s first time surfing and i’m sure not his last…  he looked like he was having a blast… it must be a Fathers dream to be able to surf with his son.  that’s cool to see more and more dreams coming true.  glad you finally got to surf with your son Hattori-san!   cool relationship and great memory guys!  Seira-chan is so smart that i can just explain a few things on the beach and she will go out and do it exactly.  i told her to put more weight on the back foot when she wants to turn.  exactly like this!  and i don’t have to tell her to be calm and relax anymore because she is more calm and relaxed than me.  haha.   Seira-chan just turned 20 years old.  that’s becoming an adult in Japan so she’s in a different world now.  her dreams just got bigger too and i’m looking forward to seeing all of them coming true…as for us teenage boys.  we took a spin in the Speedster and were laughing like little kids.  thank goodness the police didn’t pull us over.  haha.   i was just out showing Oshima-san how much of a kid i am, and now i saw the kid in him too.  maybe that’s why we get along so well.  haha…

Look Forward!  Not Backward!!!

Good morning  6:10am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and hot.

Going surfing 3 rounds!

Have a wonderful day!

 want to thank Hattori-san for the gifts from Kyoto!   and want to thank Seira-chan for the gifts from Tokushima! and also for the snacks for Mateus.  he’s going to love it!   i have to add one more person in my Top 10 calm people list.   Matsuda-san just started surfing and i don’t understand how she could be so calm???  the waves were pretty wild this morning but she was so cool and smiling the whole way… calm and happy is a great combination while riding the oceans swells… so i’m guessing if you can be this calm in the ocean you hardly know, you must be very calm out of it too?  i’m pretty sure that’s a fact…  thank you Matsuda-san for the calm early morning surf.  i hope you made your flight and had a great sleep back to Japan.  keep on surfing and keep on calming… it’s been the hottest summer i’ve ever experienced in Hawaii.  i don’t remember when every single day was 35 degrees C or about 100 F.   my body is totally burnt… spent a wonderful time this afternoon with Papa Hattori-san and 16 year old son Jun-kun.  more photos coming tomorrow… Seira-chan was out longboarding and doing it very well.  i’m totally amazed how this girl is progressing.  she looks more comfortable than majority of the people out there.  and it’s only been 2 days…

before surf, i was craving pizza, but then after we smelt all the barbecuing going on at the beach, we decided to have our own bbq… surf and bbq?  yeah, this is surfers style that every surfer loves…  want to wish Seira-chan a Happy 20th Birthday today!  wish you a wonderful year ahead with all your dreams coming true…recently, i’ve been thinking so much about the fight i saw at the beach the other day.  it was so cool that i was actually trying to plan one of my own.  haha.  so i had to sit down tonight with a glass of whisky and calm down.  i know i would be disappointing a lot of people if i did that so now i’m back to normal and Intact…