want to thank Hattori-san for the gifts from Kyoto!   and want to thank Seira-chan for the gifts from Tokushima! and also for the snacks for Mateus.  he’s going to love it!   i have to add one more person in my Top 10 calm people list.   Matsuda-san just started surfing and i don’t understand how she could be so calm???  the waves were pretty wild this morning but she was so cool and smiling the whole way… calm and happy is a great combination while riding the oceans swells… so i’m guessing if you can be this calm in the ocean you hardly know, you must be very calm out of it too?  i’m pretty sure that’s a fact…  thank you Matsuda-san for the calm early morning surf.  i hope you made your flight and had a great sleep back to Japan.  keep on surfing and keep on calming… it’s been the hottest summer i’ve ever experienced in Hawaii.  i don’t remember when every single day was 35 degrees C or about 100 F.   my body is totally burnt… spent a wonderful time this afternoon with Papa Hattori-san and 16 year old son Jun-kun.  more photos coming tomorrow… Seira-chan was out longboarding and doing it very well.  i’m totally amazed how this girl is progressing.  she looks more comfortable than majority of the people out there.  and it’s only been 2 days…

before surf, i was craving pizza, but then after we smelt all the barbecuing going on at the beach, we decided to have our own bbq… surf and bbq?  yeah, this is surfers style that every surfer loves…  want to wish Seira-chan a Happy 20th Birthday today!  wish you a wonderful year ahead with all your dreams coming true…recently, i’ve been thinking so much about the fight i saw at the beach the other day.  it was so cool that i was actually trying to plan one of my own.  haha.  so i had to sit down tonight with a glass of whisky and calm down.  i know i would be disappointing a lot of people if i did that so now i’m back to normal and Intact…

 gosh, my days have been so long that i have to divide it into 2.  yesterday afternoon was amazing just like the other afternoons.  high tide and perfect open waves.  i took out my foil so i got some shots like this.  Hattori-san on the DT nose rider… different angle, different day.  i’m following from behind hoping he doesn’t fall.  abunai… you won’t find another photo like this unless you have a $1,000 drone and a sweaty man controlling it from the beach.  haha.  good job surfing Hattori-san! Seira-chan was out practicing on the longboard.  we have a big event coming up next week so we must practice hard, and have fun at the same time… the  great thing about Seira-chan is that she listens very well.  if i say something, she will adjust in just one wave.  it’s that fast… once again, my beautiful foil drone shot!   peace girl!  keep living a happy and healthy young life like you have been doing… then the magical evening session with Oshima-san.  before we paddled out, he asked me how many times i surfed today.  i said this is my 3rd round.  he said i’m crazy.  Seira-chan said the same thing.  haha.  how can this be crazy when everybody is having so much fun???  life is short so why not enjoy each and every moment with each and every surfer…  but in the end, i think i’m crazy too.  haha. i just love watching people surfing better and better each day.  and also keeping so calm like this.  that’s what keeps me so motivated… now we’re practicing how to do off the lips.  coming real soon… if you’re in the ocean from Kewalo’s to Queen’s and hear 2 boys laughing out so loud, that’s us.  haha.   i would never have thought the day would come when i can teach surfing while i’m foiling.  and also take photos at the same time.  it’s a whole new experience by doing a bottom turn on a foil followed by an off the lip.  i have to keep calm myself so when my students watch me, all they have to do is copy it.  super simple…i haven’t foiled in a long time so it felt good to get up on my first wave and feel like i’m actually surfing.  i’m still feeling like a free bird…