now that i’m back, i can rewind back 3 days and reminisce this wonderful early morning session with these 2 energetic girls!   Ryoko-san surfs in Vietnam and loves both surfing and Vietnam.  i think she loves Hawaii too now.  haha.  i was so happy watching her ride long beautiful waves! the sunrise, and the smile.  both golden moments…. Kie-san’s first time surfing and she did great!  very stable and very calm… and very happy too… towards the end of our session, i took Ryoko-san to the outside and watched her paddle into big sets!   i thought she would fall when the white wash caught up on her, but she maintained balance and rode it all the way to the end.  so stoked!   thank you girls for the wonderful morning session.  and thank you to Surf Shack in Vietnam for sending these girls my way.  i hope to surf in Vietnam with you guys someday.  and don’t be surprised if it’s pretty soon.  haha.   i’ve been waiting and waiting for this Umeshu to ripen.  it’s sitting on my counter and my mouth is watering every night.   custom made from Niwa in Tokyo.  thank you Yuri-san!   i’m ready to kanpai!   the best way to bring home fresh Yamari shirasu is in my board bag.  it always works…drove by Diamond Head and it’s looking like paradise!  only 2 days gone but i missed Hawaii a lot.  see you in the ocean…

Enjoy the Little Things…

Good morning 6am.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.

No wind so nice morning conditions.

Sun, clouds, maybe rain.

Going foiling and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 so happy to stop by Wakayama on the way home.  and so happy to eat Ushio on the way home.  and so happy to see my Wakayama family on the way home.  thank you Kimura-san and Atsuko-san for always making me feel like i’m already home… and always happy to see Naohiro, Megumi-san, and all the boys!   had a blast playing with you boys!   Happy Birthday Megumi-san!  you’re a Super Mommy!   and had a blast eating such good food!  here was my appetizer. followed by sashimi.   as fresh as can be. followed by Wakayama steak.  so juicy and tender.   then my favorite grilled fish!  melting in my mouth.  Ushio, i love you!   i’ve been looking for these toys all over Japan.  Mateus asked for some Japanese power rangers so this is the closest i guess?  haha.  thank you to the Yamari kids for giving Unko Kirby your precious toys for Mateus.  he’s going to love you boys… want to congratulate Mori-san for catching this big GT!  i wish i was with you!!!  i was in Japan for only 2 days.  met my precious family, ate some amazing food, sweated like a pig in the heat, and now that i’m back in Hawaii, i promise i will never complain how hot it is here.  on the way back to my house, my Uber driver said “hey, it’s been so hot in Hawaii!”  i told him “hey, you don’t know what hot is!”   and i was actually upset telling him that.  haha…