Boy becoming a Man

 had a beautiful morning with the Harada-san family.  it’s been a year since we surfed together so i was looking forward to see how Sora-kun was.  last year we tandem surfed and this year he wanted to do it all by himself.   this was the end of his very first wave alone.  look how happy he was!  haha.  so cute!!! Sumie-san hasn’t surfed since last year but she didn’t forget a thing.  super nice riding all morning! Harada-san was cool and calm.  enjoying the ride from start to finish… Sora-kun started catching waves on his own!  i was so happy watching him grow in the ocean.  he’s only 12 years old and a very smart kid!   thank you guys for the wonderful time again!  i love surfing with you guys!  there were turtles everywhere!  so cool!  some kids are nervous in the ocean, some kids are confident.  Sora-kun was confident and loved every moment of every ride. Papa was also very confident and happy!   a wonderful surfing family!  great job guys!  then i grabbed lunch, grabbed my foil, and met Carter for our high tide foiling session at Bowls.  i couldn’t believe how perfect the waves were again!  another happy day in paradise!

M2O: Prone, SUP, Foil?

 just talked to Mao-san and got her side of the story.  everything was going really good half way to Oahu.  continuous paddling, lots of energy left, and enjoying the moment.     right after we heard about the 2 big sharks in the channel, Maki-san jumped in.  i was really proud of her because i know hundreds of my guy friends that would never do it.  this will make her stronger and much more calmer when she’s in the ocean.  this is mental training at its finest… then as we got closer to Oahu, things change drastically. the winds started blowing 30mph straight off shore.  then the current started going backwards.  this is when Mao-san spent 2 hours on her last part which was only supposed to take 45min.  she was fighting and fighting, and never gave up.  it was so inspiring watching this happen… then she the came into the bay and headed to the finish line.  she was advised to take that course by her coach Takuji-san.  and it turned out to be the winning way!   i couldn’t believe she could even still walk after that???  Mao-san rode a stock SUP board so it was big and bulky.  imagine paddling that against the wind and falling off 20 times???  just getting back up on the board took lots of energy.  i couldn’t have done that.we had a nice dinner and a nice talk.  Mao-san plans to go back to Okinawa and relax.  the first thing she wants to do is eat Okinawa Soba.  haha.  then she’s back to training in the ocean.  she plans to SUP next years race, and FOIL the next year after that.  what???  but with master Coach Takuji-san on her side, and her 110% positive mentality, i’m pretty sure she can do anything she tries.  remember that after winning last years prone race, she only started to SUP 8 months ago.  that’s unbelievable…  anyway, thank you Mao-san for all showing me how to never give up…  and thank you Maki-san for being my spotter and brave heart for jumping in the deep blue 4 times.  so happy to see the Women of the Ocean…

July 30, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

See the fish?  I missed it!!  No dinner for me…

Good morning 5:50am.

Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.  Clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!