the waves have been so beautiful every single day!  long rides and smooth faces.  perfect for surfing or foiling.   Carter and i have a great time foiling.  we don’t compete against each other, we just push and support each other.  trying new things and figuring things out.  i like to ride behind because i love to take photos like this.  this is freaking beautiful!   and Carter just figured out how to pump from one wave into another.  that’s when this stuff gets addicting! i’ve been craving home cooking recently.  so one of my friends told me about this secret spot to get the best home made plate lunches and sandwiches.  and it’s right down my street?  it’s been there for 30 years and i didn’t even know about it.  but now, i’ll be there 4x a week.  i love it so much i won’t tell you where it is!  haha… i love kids and love playing with kids.  i use to put Kelia on my shoulders like this and she use to love it.  so i wasn’t surprised when Ena-chan loved it too.  haha.  and playing with Mauna-chan was super fun too.  i still can’t believe this girl surfed for 3 hours with me!  haha… Sora-kun is a little too big to put on my shoulders.  but i still have fun surfing and talking in English with him.  got a nice piece of butterfish from the Nakamoto’s house.  i can’t wait to marinate it and grill it!  i think i can eat this all by myself, and that’s what i’m going to do!every time we have a gathering at the Nakamoto’s house, Papa Crow says a few words before dinner.  this time, it was about our friends from Japan.  it was about how lucky we are to have friends, and how lucky we are to get together like this.  these moments are super precious and hopefully we will do this over and over again.  i just love the family feeling.  thank you to the Nakamoto’s for always inviting us over…

Last nights dinner.  I ate too much!  Tabesugi!  But so good!!!

Good morning 5:20am.

Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.  Morning sickness.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to the Mauna…

Have a wonderful day!

 had a beautiful morning with the Harada-san family.  it’s been a year since we surfed together so i was looking forward to see how Sora-kun was.  last year we tandem surfed and this year he wanted to do it all by himself.   this was the end of his very first wave alone.  look how happy he was!  haha.  so cute!!! Sumie-san hasn’t surfed since last year but she didn’t forget a thing.  super nice riding all morning! Harada-san was cool and calm.  enjoying the ride from start to finish… Sora-kun started catching waves on his own!  i was so happy watching him grow in the ocean.  he’s only 12 years old and a very smart kid!   thank you guys for the wonderful time again!  i love surfing with you guys!  there were turtles everywhere!  so cool!  some kids are nervous in the ocean, some kids are confident.  Sora-kun was confident and loved every moment of every ride. Papa was also very confident and happy!   a wonderful surfing family!  great job guys!  then i grabbed lunch, grabbed my foil, and met Carter for our high tide foiling session at Bowls.  i couldn’t believe how perfect the waves were again!  another happy day in paradise!