had an amazing time with Kimura-san this morning.  waves good, weather good, and surfing great!   i was practically on Kimura-san’s back!  haha.  i just love riding behind yelling “go, go, go!!!”   super good surfer with super good surfboard.  want to say hello to Toru-san from JAPPS Surf Shop in Sendai!   thank you Kimura-san for the amazing session.  so fun short boarding with you!!!  i watched some of the contest in Padang Padang.  before the contest even started, i knew Benji Brand was going to do good!  but what i didn’t know is that he would win every single heat he surfed. and that’s including the final!  congratulations Benji!  Unko is very proud of you! it’s been one year since Mao-san won the world championship for the Molokai to Oahu race.  ever since then, she’s got a new hobby, stand up paddle board!  want to bet me that she will be world champion this year in the SUP division?   so happy to see you back in Hawaii Mao-san.  i’ll see you at the starting line in Molokai this weekend and i’ll be cheering for you the whole way back to Oahu.  have fun World Champ!   and want to thank Mao-san’s friend Shingo-san for the snacks from Okinawa.  and also thank you from the bottom of my heart for supporting “We Are One!”  hope to surf with you someday… as far as the TMT protest is going, it seems like the Hawaiians will finally prevail!  i get chicken skin watching these guys put their heart and soul in protecting their land.  it’s time to give the Hawaiian’s back the power they deserve.  i’m not Hawaiian but my heart is with you guys all the way!  and to see Governor Ige finally step up and go visit Mauna Kea was very touching.  he met the people, he met the movement, and he met the protectors.  now he can feel the “mana” and hopefully feel for the Hawaiian’s like the rest of Hawaii is.  it’s not time to control, it’s time to compromise…

one of my magic boards is so magic that i must have used it a thousand times.  there where holes, dings, and i never had time to fix it.  so i sent it to Gen and he patched everything up.

then i scrapped off the dirty wax, took off the stickers, and sanded it.

this board brought thousands of happy rides, and millions of smiles.  now i’m going to take it over to Jeannie Chesser and let her artistic talent bring it back to life.  i’ll let you know how it turns out…

the other day while i was diving, my line broke.  so i tied it up and shot my dinner.  now it’s fixed to perfection.  can’t wait to use it again…

i was craving salmon so went to Whole Foods and bought this fresh piece for $6.

salt, pepper, and olive oil.  simply fried to perfection.

my health dinner after a healthy day…

want to thank Ikuko-san and Mauna-chan for the snacks!

my previous doctor got sick so i had to look for another one.  when i walked into my new doctors office for the first time, i knew i found the right one!  he’s a surfer!

hopefully this doctor will understand that i need the ocean just as much as he does.   he asked me how i was feeling…

i told him, “hey Doc, i’m feeling very healthy and very happy.  please keep me that way…”

Juicy Mangos! Thank you Buddy!

Good morning 5:20am.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!