omg!  if you look, you will find.  and look what we found this morning!  secret spot with empty barrels!   Nao-san feeling so comfortable and relaxed.  surfing better than ever! Takami-san’s been scoring some really good waves too.  and surfing really good as always!  Nao-san is very lucky.  she has a 1 surf coach, 2 cheerleaders, and 3 photographers following her.   so nothing is being missed… one photographer from the water, one from the land, and a drone from above.   i’ve never had that kind of media coverage in my whole life.  haha.  surfing overhead waves all by herself.  i just sit back, watch, and yell if she makes a mistake.  haha.   since we all wanted to eat meat, we went to eat the Filipino kind of meat.  this was my plate.  very cheap and very delicious.   then driving out to the North Shore.  a perfect day for that!  Toda-san and John Amundson.  somebody’s got a new toy??? then went to get a Tortoise Chai Green Tea.  it was so good! salute!   there were these girls at the beach laughing at me.  i looked at them and said “what you girls laughing at???”  come to find out, they were laughing at my glasses.  haha.  the girl said “Unko, you just made my day.”   happy to hear that girl.  haha…then we jumped in for round 2.  better waves and better rides.  another amazing day Nao-san!  you did great!

 thank you Masaki-san!!!   thank you Yuji-san and Kaori-san!thank you Toda-san and Takami-san!

Itadakimasu!  So happy!!!

 i was sitting in the truck at 7am in the morning in Waikiki.  loud noises and construction already?   i felt sorry for the tourists that were still sleeping and dreaming… so sad to see another landmark demolished.  the King’s Village has been here forever.  but now it’s gone forever… i’ve been seriously trying to hold my line with my foil so i can get barreled.  it takes a lot of commitment and is very risky.  but i’m feeling like if the barrel is there, i’m going to take that risk.   you have to keep very low and actually drag your back hand in the wave to slow down.  sounds foolish, but this is the only way.  i’ve tried it a few times and it seems like it’s coming together.   then when things are looking promising, the foil gets sucked in a surge and throws you over like a jackass.  and because you were going so fast to begin with, you will fly like a jackass too.  haha. but nothing is more dangerous then somebody looking at me when i’m trying to take their photo.  another board hit me in the leg.  omg!  stop looking at me please!!!! we’ve been having a lot of fun recently staying away from the crowd.  super fast waves with nobody around is like a dream.  Nao-san knows the feeling.  recently, i’ve been short boarding, longboarding, and foiling a lot.  i love it all, but the sensation of flying like a bird is feeding my appetite right now… and to foil with Toda-san is so fun!  we would never surf these kinds of waves before, but now, we feel like kids again.  when my surf sunglasses gets wet, i can barely see.  so i thought to myself, “i just have to protect one eye right?”  now, my right eye is protected, and i can see clearly out of my left eye!  it may look weird, but it works right?  haha…  actually, one of my lenses popped out when i fell.  haha.