i was sitting in the truck at 7am in the morning in Waikiki.  loud noises and construction already?   i felt sorry for the tourists that were still sleeping and dreaming… so sad to see another landmark demolished.  the King’s Village has been here forever.  but now it’s gone forever… i’ve been seriously trying to hold my line with my foil so i can get barreled.  it takes a lot of commitment and is very risky.  but i’m feeling like if the barrel is there, i’m going to take that risk.   you have to keep very low and actually drag your back hand in the wave to slow down.  sounds foolish, but this is the only way.  i’ve tried it a few times and it seems like it’s coming together.   then when things are looking promising, the foil gets sucked in a surge and throws you over like a jackass.  and because you were going so fast to begin with, you will fly like a jackass too.  haha. but nothing is more dangerous then somebody looking at me when i’m trying to take their photo.  another board hit me in the leg.  omg!  stop looking at me please!!!! we’ve been having a lot of fun recently staying away from the crowd.  super fast waves with nobody around is like a dream.  Nao-san knows the feeling.  recently, i’ve been short boarding, longboarding, and foiling a lot.  i love it all, but the sensation of flying like a bird is feeding my appetite right now… and to foil with Toda-san is so fun!  we would never surf these kinds of waves before, but now, we feel like kids again.  when my surf sunglasses gets wet, i can barely see.  so i thought to myself, “i just have to protect one eye right?”  now, my right eye is protected, and i can see clearly out of my left eye!  it may look weird, but it works right?  haha…  actually, one of my lenses popped out when i fell.  haha.

Where is everybody?  Nao-san and I surfing a very secret spot.  Thank you Todaheli for the amazing birds view…

Good morning 5:10am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and perfect.

Light winds so clean morning conditions.  Afternoon onshore winds.

Sunny and hot.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 it was another lucky day for the boys because our little secret spot yesterday was still a secret because only had a few surfers out.  Namikoshi-san at Paradise!   Tokukura-san was energetic like the day before.  riding wave after wave after wave… Namikoshi-san catching a super long left!   and look at these big empty swells.  it’s like riding mountains to yourself… there were so many empty waves so i started making them not so empty.  i was having so much fun too!   saw my foil friend Dave out there.  we could talk for days about foiling.   thank you boys again!  i can’t tell you how lucky you guys were to score 2 perfect days surfing on Mayuki… then we we had a poke bowl for lunch. then picked up Nao-san and let her chose where she wanted to surf.  one option was a head high waves at Bowls with 20 other surfers out.  or a secret spot with head high waves with nobody out.  he answer was pretty simple… when a big white wash is coming right to you, you can simple turn around and catch it.  and if you can ride it and control your mind, you will have the best ride of your life… then when you’re ready to stand up, do so and enjoy the ride…  good job again girl…sitting in the shade talking story about foiling, surfing, and life.  when i see everybody smiling and happy, i’m smiling and happy too.  life is pretty dam good guys…