Yesterday afternoon @ Bowls Rights…  So good!!!

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana overhead and good.  Getting big now!

Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing all day long.

Have a safe and wonderful day!

 so happy to surf with Ayaka-san again!  it’s been 7 long years since we surfed together and this girl got super good!   so many waves on this brand new South Swell!  supposed to be lots of swells for the next month!  lucky us… very poised, very calm, and very cool.  super happy to surf with you again! thank you Ayaka-san and hope you’re having a peaceful flight back to Japan right now.  surf in the morning and sleep on the airplane in the afternoon.  sounds like the life i live too!  haha.   then it was Nao-san’s turn this afternoon.  after the 2 days training at Diamond Head, today was a piece of cake.  very calm ocean and very perfect waves. i couldn’t believe how nice the waves were breaking on the high tide.  long open lefts and rights that were super fun.   Go-Naosan! imagine how close i have to be to get photos like this.  so one little mistake could become a major accident.  high risk, high return… this time high risk and no return.  haha.  thank you Nao-san for another amazing surf session.  i can’t believe how long we surfed today!  i’m totally sunburnt!  and so are you!!!

OMG, UFC World Champion Max Holloway paddled out today.  i was so surprised to see him!  my first time meeting him and hopefully not my last.  we had a nice conversation and i’ll tell you what he said.  super stoked to meet my hero!

 when the winds and weather is like how it’s been, things change very quickly.  and i love watching every minute of it!  and i love watching people walking up and down the cliff.  it’s like hiking and surfing all at once.   very exhausting…  just ask Nao-san!  but once you get out, the ocean is yours!  paddle girl!!!! and once you stand up, you dictate your ride.  go girl!!! super good surfing again Nao-san!   happy to see Lori out there too enjoying the rides… end our session off with a black sugar boba from Teaspresso.  try it and you won’t be disappointed.   um, somebody is going to an outer island trip soon?   and it’s not me because i don’t eat marshmallows and chocolate.  enjoy the trip guys.  wish i could join you!