Diamond Head has been very very good!!!

Good good morning 5:50am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.  New South swell tomorrow.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 went under my house and found some old treasure.  this Mike Woo twin fin must be 20 years old?  so i dusted it off and took it to the beach.   surfed with Yamamoto-san and had a great time at Diamond Head.  great time because great guy and great waves!   omg, from my first wave, this board was magic!  reminded me of surfing back in the 1970’s even before the thruster was born.  Yamamoto-san was on the thruster driving off the bottom of wave after wave.   so stoked to capture this sequence.   this is confidence, focus, and determination.  look at this beautiful turn and beautiful photo!  this is perfect high performance surfing.  so happy to see Yamamoto-san surfing 5x better than last year.  good waves, good time!   then i let Yamamoto-san try my twin fin.  and i never got it back after that.  haha.  yes, we scored some good Diamond Head today.  wanted to say hello to Fukuda-san and all the boys at Step Ocean Sports!  poke for our lunch.  surf and poke.  nice combo!

surfed again this afternoon but can’t keep my eyes open.  goodnight for now…

so happy to receive photos from people that love to explore.  Saori-san went to Sumatra and experienced things you can only dream of.  how beautiful is this???

and to see the wildlife in the Sumatran jungle must be amazing.  this is crazy!

gosh, i love places like this.  i don’t even know what’s being prepared, but i’ll eat it anyway.  so happy for you Saori-san.  keep on traveling!

Toda-san took a break from foiling yesterday and jumped in with the Red Sea Adventure crew.   omg!   this is amazing!!!  where’s the sashimi?  haha…

when i was younger, i use to surf Diamond Head everyday.  i couldn’t see the beauty then, but i can surely see it now.  i guess recognizing beauty comes with age?

i came home and saw something new in my garage.  what?  another motorcycle?  my brother is going crazy for the kids!  haha…

i’ve been so busy that i forgot that i have another brand new foil board in my living room.  this one is a 4’2 and is made for towing in foiling.  smaller board for bigger waves.  so if you see this blue board flying down a 10′ wave, that might be me!  haha.

but for now, i’ll keep practicing so when that day comes, there are no excuses.

my recent fortune read “you are in the company of exceptional friends- enjoy.”   yes, i know i am!