i’ve been surfing Big Rights with Donald for the past 30 years.  i know the kind of waves he likes and i know what he’s looking for.  so i invite him for his first foiling session at Bowls.  i already knew he was going to the peak to catch the biggest wave possible.  it’s in the blood and that’s why we get along so well.  haha.   i told him he should get a small one in the inside before he goes to the outside.  but of course, he didn’t listen.  it’s like someone took a leash off a wild dog in the park.  haha.   wherever Donald surfs, he goes straight to the peak and waits for the biggest and best wave.  that’s what i do too so we’re always talking story and taking turns.   our dream is to get big barrels at Big Right’s so all we’re doing is practicing now.  maybe our dream will come true this Summer?   OMG, it’s amazing how good Toda-san got in just one day!!!  2 days ago, he was falling on every wave and getting pissed off.  now, he’s riding high and loving life!   i told Toda-san “finally!!!!”  now life will only get better for this newborn foiler! if it wasn’t for the foil, we wouldn’t be smiling like this after a chest high day at Bowls.  we were the happiest 3 kids in the whole ocean!  haha…  Donald is an airplane pilot so he already knew how to fly, Toda-san flies drones so he already knew the view, and i’m the virgin of all because i’ve never experienced this kind of excitement ever!   thanks boys for the amazing time!

SUP’ing Ala Moana with Toda-san!  Eeh, no drop in!!!

Good morning 5:50am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and nice.

Light winds so good morning conditions.

Sunny and hot.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

wow!  good waves and good surfing this morning from Misaki-san.  super energetic girl that loves to enjoy the ride!   so happy to see her back in Hawaii loving the ocean!   Toda-san was out this morning with his SUP.  big power turns!   i taught this girl how to surf last year and look at her now!  perfect form, perfect style, and perfect ride!   been seeing so many turtles recently.  this little guy came to say hello. good surfing, good smiling!  good job Misaki-san!   then some poke for our hungry stomachs.  healthy and happy!  see you again tomorrow girl!   Rookie Seth Moniz surfed his 1st round today in Brazil and looked like a veteran.  first place in the heat and straight to round 3!   and had to end the heat with a great air!  i’m so amazed how this kid can surf good in every kind of conditions.  can’t wait till Teahupo’o and Pipeline!   but for now, let’s get a good result in Brazil!  so happy to receive my package today!  opened it up and found my nice custom seat.   i put it on, took it for a ride, and i’m loving it even more.  very comfortable and very cool!  as for Noah Jr. and Mateus, these boys are getting hooked on dirt bike riding! yes, the boys are ready to go again.  i can’t wait to see them in the mountains flying high over trees and cliffs!  total fearless!