Toda-san was towing me out into the deep blue where the biggest of the tiger sharks roam. there is a big wave out there and if you time it right, you can foil the wave of your life. Takami-san shooting photos, Toda-san driving, and i let go the rope and pump into the biggest wave i’ve ever foiled. was going down the face so fast that my foil couldn’t handle the turbulence and flipped over. and of course, me too!
i didn’t have a leash so my board went all the way in. swimming all alone with only one eye, i remembered that this is the place they call Tiger Shark Country. was i scared? to be honest, a little. haha…
i just ordered another foil that’s specialized for big waves. once i get it, i’m going straight back out there and trying again!
been teaching this kid how to surf and enjoy the ocean for many years now. but recently, i seen a really big change. Aoi-kun’s super connected with the ocean now and looks confident, cool, and calm. that is my ultimate goal because from now on, this kid can do it on his own. he probably can even save a life in the meantime…
so cool to find a little surf point just for ourselves. no stress, no attitude, no locals, and no bullshit. this is what surfing is all about…
happy to be in the water with Takami-san too. it’s been 30 years of surfing together and enjoying the rides…
in the past 7 days, there have been 236 recorded thefts from Diamond Head to Kakaa’ko. can you freaking believe that??? all these dots represent a crime.
and this is just for theft! what’s happening to my island????
Yesterday sets at Rock Piles. OMG! So big and beautiful…
if you guys ever wonder where your stolen bicycle went, i think i know where. 
since the frame has serial numbers, it’s practically useless. so the bad people steal you bicycle and take off the parts. then dump the frame like this. bakatare!
what did you guys do on this beautiful Father’s Day? i went surfing! the waves were so freaking beautiful!!! 
went surfing with Konishi-san and had so much fun. i was screaming “go!!!”
a very cool guy that loves to surf. thank you Konishi-san and wish you a Happy Father’s Day again! 
there was this one local girl out there today getting the most beautiful waves of the day. wow! 
my Father’s Day dinner. it’s been over 2 years since i ate this special dish so i was very happy! 
steak, shrimp, and squid. the best combination ever!
the only place in the world you can eat this dish is right here down my street. no matter how hard you try to copy it, there’s no way. a very secret recipe that makes your mouth water…
right before dinner, i went to go watch the sunset. i thought the waves were going to be junk but it turned out to be absolutely perfect! so i grabbed my foil and starting flying! this is how i get out to the lineup. no need paddle! 
have you every tried to surf with one eye? we’ll, my right eye is always closed so it’s not that easy at all. but i’m trying my best!
and for the most part, i’m falling off to my left on purpose because if i fell off to my right, i wouldn’t be able to see where i’m landing. and that is very dangerous. this is called the “one eye wipeout.”
Carter came to look at the waves too. it was pretty good to shortboard, but 10x better for the foil. so i let Carter try out my foil and he was ripping! Happy Father’s Day to another father! and thank you Mia for sitting in the hot sun taking my and Uncle Carter’s photos. you’re so sweet!
