the lovely Korean Amasan’s asked me if i was from Vietnam.  haha…  i thought they were joking, but they weren’t.  haha.   this place is still a hidden secret.  i will never ever post the location and i hope others don’t either.   i don’t want to go back there and see tour busses lined up.  that would suck!   fresh sazai form the ocean right into your stomach.  crunchy and delicious… this is what a typical lunch looks like.  next time i’ll take a cold beer, wasabi, and shoyu.  this is a fisherman’s dream meal!   omg, i think i’m going back there sooner than later.  i would just fly there from Japan just to eat this meal.  $50 one way ticket?  why not??? the waves at Big Right’s and Bowls have been pretty good this past weekend.  some of the boys been asking me where i’ve been.  i told them, “i’m been pretty good guys.  please don’t worry about me because i’m doing really well.  when i want to get barreled, i’ll be back.  but for now, i’m addicted to flying…”   and i’m addicted to foil/surfing where there are nobody else out.  nobody saying this is my wave, nobody talking shit, and nobody to distract me from nature.  for now, this is the place i want to be…my friend gave this t-shirt years ago and i never let it go.  it doesn’t only bring me joy, it brings back the endless memories of The Point After in Waikiki.  remember that guys back in the 1980’s.  the best discotech in the world.  if you went there, i probably seen you.  haha…

Perfect lefts @ Bowls…

Good morning 6am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

East winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

Toda-san was towing me out into the deep blue where the biggest of the tiger sharks roam.   there is a big wave out there and if you time it right, you can foil the wave of your life.  Takami-san shooting photos, Toda-san driving, and i let go the rope and pump into the biggest wave i’ve ever foiled.  was going down the face so fast that my foil couldn’t handle the turbulence and flipped over.  and of course, me too!

i didn’t have a leash so my board went all the way in.  swimming all alone with only one eye, i remembered that this is the place they call Tiger Shark Country.   was i scared?  to be honest, a little.  haha…

i just ordered another foil that’s specialized for big waves.  once i get it, i’m going straight back out there and trying again!

been teaching this kid how to surf and enjoy the ocean for many years now.  but recently, i seen a really big change.  Aoi-kun’s super connected with the ocean now and looks confident, cool, and calm.  that is my ultimate goal because from now on, this kid can do it on his own.  he probably can even save a life in the meantime…

so cool to find a little surf point just for ourselves.  no stress, no attitude, no locals, and no bullshit.  this is what surfing is all about…

happy to be in the water with Takami-san too.  it’s been 30 years of surfing together and enjoying the rides…

in the past 7 days, there have been 236 recorded thefts from Diamond Head to Kakaa’ko.   can you freaking believe that???  all these dots represent a crime.

and this is just for theft!  what’s happening to my island????