Ala Moana Bowls on Fire!

Good morning 5:15am.

Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.  Clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.

Light winds so nice morning conditions.  Onshore in the afternoon.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling, doctor, surfing, foiling, and BBQ.

Have a wonderful day!

omg, i foiled morning and afternoon at Diamond Head today.  it was as good as it can ever get for foiling.  super long rides flying like a bird.  i just love it!

since i’m going to Bali in a few days, i was thinking back about the first time i took Seth there.  he was only 12 years old and had no idea he’d be going back there 9 years later to surf the World Championship Tour.  but Uncle Kirby did…  here’s the caption i wrote on my blog 9 years ago.

“if it wasn’t for surfing, i would be less 10,000 friends. and if it wasn’t for surfing, i’d probably be in jail. surfing has given me things that money can’t buy. making friends and traveling with family is priceless. so i wanted to thank everybody that has supported my surfing career… mahalo”

i remember teaching Seth how to eat with his hands too.  he was tripping out at first, then got use it towards the end of our trip.  look how cute this kid was!

first trip to Bali and he won his division in the International Grom contest!

and Isaiah won his division too!  i was so proud of these boys.

this was our very first session at Keramas.  i remember Seth adapting very well to this tricky wave.   i would shoot photos all morning, then we’d go back to our hotel and look at them.  learning frame by frame what it takes to get to the top.  fast forward 9 years, this is where the WCT event starts next week!  Seth should feel like home out there…

by the end of the trip, Seth had his barrel riding perfected.  and he was only 12 years old.

Kazuma-kun from Okinawa came along for the ride and he’s now the top pro surfer in Okinawa.  it’s amazing how these kids grew up to where they are today.   us Uncles are super proud!

Seth was always very approachable and very good with kids.  this is why everybody loves him.  Kazuma-kun feeling comfortable.  haha.  by the way, look at Seth’s abs!  just like superman!

back then, the exchange rate was 8700 rupiah to $1USD.  now, it’s 14500 rupiah to $1USD.  i’m going to be rich when i get there!

 i’ve surfed with Ai-san many many times.  mostly on low tides do i planned to take her out on the super high tide yesterday.  a totally different experience.  waves were super open and very long rides. i took out my camera and foil.  wanted to get different photos then the ones i usually take of Ai-san.   all it took was one wave then i got the shot!  i was foiling in front and watching this amazing ride looking back.  we were laughing all the way!   i just love good surfing, and good photos.  a happy combination on a happy day!   while we were out, this college girl paddled out next to us.  then this 16 year old kid from the mainland paddled out too.  he came to me and said “hey, do you think i can get her?”  i said “what?”  he said, “i’m going to try to get a date with that girl.”  i said “go for it.”  he paddled up to her and said “what’s your name, how old are you, where you from, what’s your phone number.”   that was all in one sentence.  haha.  the girl looked at him and thought he was crazy.  the kid told me “well, at least i tried.”  i told him “dude, is that how you pick up girls in your hometown?”  he said “yes.”  i told him “dude, that shit don’t work over here.”  he paddled in right after.   then the girl looks at me and says “that was freaking awkward!”  haha.  that kid better go back home and think of a better and more respectful way to approach women.  haha…too bad Ai-san couldn’t understand that conversation because she would be laughing so much.  it was hilarious!  anyway, thank you Ai-san for the wonderful days of Boot Camp.  you did great!