My childhood dream came true:  I can fly!!!

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana chest high and super good!  South swell coming up.

Diamond Head head high and perfect.

No wind in the morning so clean.  Afternoon trade winds coming back.

Sunny and warm.

Going flying!

Have a wonderful day!

 passed by Diamond Head at 6:30am this morning and couldn’t pass up this epic day!  the parking was already full but i would have waited forever.   yes, Diamond Head has been as good as it gets this past week.  but things will change as the trade winds come back tomorrow.  back to junky conditions so look elsewhere.   good or junky conditions doesn’t matter for us foilers.  so long as there is a knee high wave, we can fly like we’re on a 20′ wave at Waimea Bay.   little by little i’m getting higher in the lip.  i feel like i’m totally surfing now.   it’s the greatest surfing feeling i ever felt in my life!  my goal is to get above the lip with my foil flying out the back. that’s going to feel so good! so stoked to see Jun Jo out there ripping today.  we’ve been friends since the early 90’s and hung out in Japan more than a few many times.  we had the craziest experiences and did things that will make you laugh out loud.  haha.  then went to pick up Mimoto-san for a super good surf at Bowls.  waves were perfect and so was his surfing.   this was Mimoto-san’s 2nd time surfing and he was doing it all by himself.   i was on the side enjoying his rides… great job Mimoto-san!  you’re officially a surfer from today!  congratulations….good to see Brittney out surfing the perfect Rockpiles lefts.  this girl swam the Molokai channel so lots of respect for her.  yes, she swam it!

i can’t believe that one of the best foiling spots in the world is only 12 minutes away from my house.  look at those beautiful lines!

and watching all the boys becoming better of friends.  we are like a newborn gang.  haha.

checked some news yesterday to see what’s going on in this world.  seems like the clothing is still getting smaller and smaller.  omg, what’s next?

and somebody forgetting a Starbucks coffee cup on the table in “The Game of Thrones?”  are you serious?

now to Hawaii news.  this Kamaina Termite company van made an illegal left turn right in front of a “No Left Turn” sign.  then he hit a guy on a moped and the guy died.  senseless…

and this Japanese nationalist named Nagisa had her first appearance in Hawaii court.  she lured a young Japanese tourist girl to their hotel room, The Outrigger Waikiki.  she told the girl that she wanted her to help choose her bikini for the pool.  then her husband came in the room and assaulted her, then as the husband was raping the girl and beating her up, Nagisa was translating her husbands sexual demands to Japanese.   and Nagisa was also kissing the girl while the husband raped her 4 times!   she’s in jail now and won’t be going back to Japan anytime soon.  this is the very reason why i always tell women and girls who come to Hawaii not to trust anyone!  bad things like this happens everywhere in the world now.  so please be careful!