had a super good time with Kitasato-san this morning.  cool Doctor from Fukuoka that loves to surf!   he’s been surfing for only 4 years but looks like he’s been doing it forever.   good waves and good rides equal good smiles…  great style, and huge progression today!   after catching 20 waves, we went to power up with some hot pho!  thank you Kitasato-san for the wonderful morning!   then went to pick up the Kyoto boys this afternoon.  waves super good and not too many people. look at Oshima-san go on this perfect right!   Hattori-san loves the longboard.  he’s almost making it look too easy… Kobayashi-san paddling into waves on his own and riding them all the way to the wall.  so stoked! Oshima-san learned something the other day.  and that something has made this man a happy reborn surfer.  surfing so good and fast now!!   Hattori-san doesn’t even get tired anymore.  that’s because his muscles are getting use to the paddling.  and if your muscles can get use to all that paddling we do, that means you’re body is getting stronger!  Kobayashi-san on his last wave.  super good ride and super good smile.  thank you boys for the happy afternoon!  lots of laughs and amazing rides!

 i was sitting in my car looking at the waves for 30 minutes.  i wanted to foil but i was too tired, so i decided to go home.  started my engine and then my friend Jason knocked on my window and said “let’s foil!”  within a second, i said “ok, let’s foil!”  we were like 2 kids enjoying life to the fullest!!!   we took turns catching wave after wave.  it was beautiful, fun, and so relaxing.  when i came in, i checked my texts.  i texted Seth earlier “welcome back.  good job in Australia!”  he replied “thanks.  let’s foil!”  haha… in the 35 years i’ve been surfing Ala Moana, this was the first time i ever got stung by a jellyfish!  i couldn’t believe it!  it was stinging, burning, and painful… luckily i brought back some jellyfish spray from Australia.  this thing worked super good!   now the pain is gone, but the itchiness will be here for a week.  some sleepless nights ahead… want to thank Kanazawa-san for the senbei!   i bit into one and had a creamy surprise in the middle.  so good!   and want to thank Hattori-san for the custard cake.  i was so hungry after surfing so i opened it and ate it on the way home.  haha. another helicopter crash here in Hawaii.  it’s pretty scary because these things crash all the time and they’re flying over us all day long.   three people died in this crash…loving these cloudy days because it’s creating the most amazing sunsets…

Perfect surf continues…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

Trade winds back at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!