check out this cool photo Nao-san took the other day at Jurassic Park…
check out this cool photo i took this morning at Bowls.
and check out another cool photo i took this morning at Bowls. good to see the morning crew looking so happy to see me. haha…
took this photo outside my house.
and this one too. my little darling Kaira…
i came home from work in the evening, put my boards away, then straight back out of my house to meet Carter down at a bar to watch Seth’s heat! both of us wouldn’t miss it so why not watch it together?
Seth was losing in the last minutes of the heat. he needed another score so when this wave came, it was nerve-racking!!! if he falls, he loses. if he makes it, maybe he advances…
with 1 minute remaining and still waiting for his score, Seth stayed calm. how does he do it???
then with 24 seconds left, Seth was still calm but Uncle Rainos and Papa Tony were stressing! i’m glad i wasn’t there because i’d be biting off my fingers… in the end, Seth got the score!!! it was total relief…
i text Seth right after, “You surfed a really smart heat. Congratulations! Just keep doing your thing and have fun at the same time. See you in Bali!”
he replied, “Thanks Uncle! See you in Bali!”
so yeah, i guess I’m going to Bali next month for the next WCT Event!!!! yeah!!!

Walking on water…
all you need is a super low tide like this morning, then the waves will break no matter what. in fact, there were lots of waves breaking so lots of rides for everybody.
Nao-san catches more waves than anyone on any day. i hope i’m not spoiling her. haha.
and she knows that if she stays close to me, she will get the wave of the day! here it is!
and i’m trying to get my own wave of the day too. haha. thank you for the wonderful morning Nao-san!
then straight off the airplane, here comes Dr. Ryu-san again! it was once again perfect this afternoon!
want to say hello to the wife and kids in Japan. i’ll make sure Daddy has a great time!
perfect surfing and perfect Hawaii. a great combo! thank you Ryu-san for the pure stoke!
Naoka came to my house last night with a Ted’s Bakery Pie. i picked it up and couldn’t believe how heavy it was!
so i weighted it and it was 3.2lbs or 1.5kilos. i felt fat just thinking about it. but these pies are hard to resist so i had to eat it. thank you Naoka for my Ted’s Belly!
