going to Molokai over and over makes me realize how important the slow life is.  when i first started going there, everybody would tell me to “slow down.”   but recently, nobody’s saying that to me so i’m guessing that i’m slowing down?  hope it’s true…   how in the world could you not slow down when you’re experiencing breathtaking sunsets like this from your balcony?   forgot to tell Peter King thank you for letting me borrow your foil board in Australia.  super cool guy that’s super cool to me.  thank you bro! i looked at this photo over and over.  in my mind, i’m thinking about how i’m going to get into the barrel next time.  i know if i grabbed my rail on this one, maybe i could have gotten barreled.  but at the same time, if i made a slight misjudgment, i could have killed myself.  so i guess it’s all about commitment.  that’s something i can do after watching Seth surf the contest.  so come this Summer, i’ll be trying to get barreled either at Bowls, or Big Rights, or both.  got 2 other of my foiler friends thinking the exact same thing.  the boys can’t wait… i miss Seth already.  i miss his calmness, i miss his coolness, and i miss his explosiveness.  it’s crazy that after all these years of teaching this kid things, he’s now teaching me.   and i want to learn more and more from him… want to thank Nao-san for the treats!   itadakimasu!   want to thank Aida-san for the treats.  itadakimasu again!  hey Mateus, call me up already!  let’s go surf again!!!   you’re the cutest kid in the whole world!  you bring out the happiness to everyone around you…after my trip to Australia, i can say over and over that there is nowhere in the world better to surf than right here in Hawaii.  i’ve traveled the world and yet to find anywhere even close to this…

Yesterday @ Bowls.  Springtime in a Bikini…

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore waist to chest high and clean.

Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 started off today with some easy fun waves.  Nao-san paddled out to Bowls all by herself and caught waves all morning by herself.  it was actually too easy for her.   i just surfed on the side watching this girl having the time of her life!   then we went to load up on protein.  prime rib protein! then off to get a cool avocado smoothie.  it’s always a first time for everything. since the morning was so easy, we needed a challenge in the afternoon.  and Diamond Head was the right place for that!   but before you paddle out, you have to hike down the steep mountain.  you’ll be lucky if you don’t fall.  go slow girl! then right when we get out, i see Nao-san on the outside riding a set!  it was super wild but she hung on and rode it till the end.  amazing!   i explained to Nao-san how Bowls is so easy, and Diamond Head is so challenging.  now she knows why.  if you can surf Diamond Head, Bowls is easy.  if you can surf Bowls, that doesn’t mean you can surf Diamond Head.   go try and you’ll know what i mean.  get ready to be lost at sea… foiling Diamond Head isn’t easy too.  most of the time, you’re hanging on for your dear life!  haha…went to Whole Foods and seen a sale on my favorite cookies!  usually around $8 but on sale for $4.  i was sold!