Foiling Jurassic Park on a Sunday

April 15, 2019

Nao-san gave the the update on this mornings half marathon. no way into Bowls so no problem at all. many other options on this beautiful Sunday. took a nice drive out to the East side and checked out Jurassic’s. when we first got there, the waves were tiny. then little by little, it started to grow. so i let Nao-san make the call. and she said “let’s go out, why not!” was fun to see her riding beautiful waves into the beautiful scenery. absolutely breathtaking! good to see all my foiler friends out. Jason Tango ripping hard! i didn’t even have to ask Nao-san if she liked it our not because i could tell by her face that she was loving it. this is one of the most magical surf spots on this island. it only breaks on high surf advisories like today! so yeah, we scored! glad to be back home and flying like a free bird! i call this spot Jurassic Park because it’s the most playful and magical ocean park in the world. just ask my friends and they will tell you the same thing… paddle out, ride some waves, come in, drink water and eat food, talk story and laugh, then paddle back out for more waves. it was a beautiful Sunday surfing and foiling with the island boys! then it’s an automatic stop on the way back at the best Lilikoi Butter house in the world. freshly made yesterday with love and aloha. can’t wait to spread it on my toast!

Wax Deck by SurfCo and Sister by Roxy

April 15, 2019

did you guys hear about the collaboration Kelia and Hailey Bieber did? well, they got together and created a brand called “Sister” by Roxy. very classy swimsuits for very classy girls. so trade in your g-strings and go back to what the fashion will be in the next few years, Classy! when i was in Australia, i seen this image everywhere i went… and i also seen this huge photo of Kelia on the walls too. so yeah, i had to get my selfie with her. it’s so crazy because she’s starting to look like my sister Tammy! haha… found these photons on my desktop. forgot to post this one of Dr. Keinosuke-san. he was just here and will be here again very shortly. a total surf addict! and really miss his lovely family. a very strong bond that i always love to see… fresh from off the airplane, Nao-san came to Hawaii to surf immediately. the last time she surfed was with me last December. i couldn’t believe how much energy she had from her very first wave. looking so happy and fun!!! Nao-san’s goal for this trip is to surf by herself and be able to turn. pretty easy task as she’s already surfing by herself. i’m just a photographer now capturing the moment… i couldn’t believe how good the waves at Bowls was yesterday. i didn’t expect the chest high sets with nobody around us, but we weren’t complaining. get ready for another week of Bootcamp girl! i went to pick up some Wax Mat from David at Surfco. put it on my board and it works amazing! no need wax anymore and a clean board every day. perfect for me because i like clean waves, and a clean board!