Australia Surf Lessons in Paradise

 Surfers Paradise in Australia is a very beautiful place.  the government keeps it clean, safe, and user friendly for surfers.  waves in front, and happy people everywhere.   i walked up and down the main beach for 3 days straight.  everyday was onshore, cold, and a lot of jellyfish on the beach.  as much as i was desperate for a surf, it just wasn’t too inviting.   so i just sat on the beach and watched surf lessons all day.  i wanted to see how they did it in Australia. i thought they were going to paddle out to the outside, but instead, they just walked in knee deep water and surfed right there.  i watched the instructor push his first student into his first wave.   then the second student gets pushed in.   she stood up!  yeah, welcome to the surfing world!  then after 3 seconds, the wave was done.  then i thought to myself, “some of my students probably have no idea how lucky they are to surf in Hawaii.  long rides, warm water, and no jellyfish.”    so yeah, i still feel that the best place in the world to learn how to surf in right here in Hawaii!   lucky us…

diveR: Madam Pele

 now that i’m back home, i really miss hanging out with Kelia and Seth.  these kids are on top of the world right now and i’m a very proud and happy Unko!   i was playing with Kaira at my house today.  Kelia is still in Australia so i took this photo and sent it to her saying “i’m glad to be back home.  haha.”  you should have seen her reply!   it wasn’t good.  haha.   ever since i was a kid, i always wanted the best free dive fins.  but costing over $500 in Hawaii, i could never afford it.  so going to Australia and getting introduced to the best fin maker in the world (diveR) was very lucky for me.  and since i’m from Hawaii, i had to choose the Hawaiian Goddess of Volcano’s, Madam Pele.   i wanted these because you can take it apart and travel with them.  it actually rolls up and fits in my backpack!  so today i put it together and i’m ready to try her out.   i can’t wait!!! while i was gone, a young 22 year old Japanese student at UH was driving her car near Makapuu at night.  she hit a big rock in the middle of the street.   somewhere around here where it’s pitch dark and nobody around.  anyway, after she hit the rock, she got out of the car to see what happened, then a guy with a gun jumped in her car and kidnapped, sexually assaulted, and robbed her.  the guy finally got caught and this is him.  he put the rock on the street on purpose so people would stop.  now he’s in jail but because of our shit legal system, he’ll  probably be out on the streets in a few days.

so when i tell all you young women that come to Hawaii to stay in your hotel at night, this is the reason why.  it’s better to just surf all day and sleep all night.  nowhere in the world is safe anymore…

April 13, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Live the Aloha…

Good morning 6:30am.

North shore shoulder high and fun.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head head high and wild.

Strong trade winds at 30mph.

Cloudy morning becoming sunny.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!