today was a beautiful day!  so glad i went on that long trip because now that i’m back, i love Hawaii even more!  and today, it was absolutely perfect!!! Hiroki-san’s nickname is Rocky.  i don’t know how he got it but if were to give him a nickname, it would be Happy!  this is one of the happiest surfers i know. Ty and i have a lot in common.  we love to fish, dive, and love everything about the ocean.  and now  that Ty can surf, the ocean is even more to love.   this guy was taking off all by himself and it was only his 2nd time surfing.   Masaki-san is new to surfing too.  but if you saw him charging waves by himself, you would think he’s done this his whole life.   Lisako-san’s second time surfing.  her first time was in San Diego so maybe we’re talking 3 second rides.  today, it was more like 30 second rides.  lots of energy in this yoga teacher!   watching the smiles and stoke was so nice to see.  i was watching some surf lessons in Australia but it was nothing close to this.  Hawaii is the place to be!   another long ride for Masaki-san.  and this is called “stoked.”   Ty is a yoga teacher too so he knows how to keep calm and enjoy the moment.   and this is enjoying the moment… Older sister Lisako-san riding her last wave of the day.  so smooth… Rocky asked me why it was so uncrowded.  one reason is i know where to go.  and another reason is that when i paddle out, people paddle away from me.  probably because they know that we’re going to get all the good waves.  haha… Rocky on a left all to himself.   happy smile, and happy shaka.  this is surfing, this is our life!   a wonderful day to spend in Hawaii with the family.  this is Hawaiian Surfers Paradise!  thank you Rocky for bringing your brothers and sister to surf with me.  i had a wonderful time with you all.  i’m so happy that you guys can all surf together from now on.  your life and relationships will be even better!    have a safe flight back to Japan and please tell Kami-san that i said “Aloha!”

 we couldn’t have stayed at a better place in Coolangatta.  it was freaking amazing. and to watch the waves breaking in front every single day was a treat.   just take down the elevator, cross the street, and you’re in the lineup.  that easy. the government pumps sand into the lineup so it forms a superbank for the happy surfers.  and smooth sandy bottoms makes it perfect for easy foiling.  look at Matthew riding high. Tony really turned heads because all of a sudden, all the Australian Legend surfers were interested in foiling.  and who did they talk to?  yup, Tony Moniz.  i got to foil one day with Michel Bourez.  this Tahitian pro surfer is a total waterman.  super cool and super talented guy.   i even got to foil with Kai Lenny for 2 days.  this guy is amazing.  i learned so much just by watching him riding so effortlessly.   imagine taking off at Kirra and trying to get barreled on a foil?  i don’t have to imagine anymore.  this is it… i’m going to miss the lovely sunsets.  but i’m not going to miss the continuous jellyfish stings… and i’m sure not going to miss the big lizzards.  i thought they were alligators!  but i will miss my every morning organic kombucha you can find at any shop on the street.   so refreshing and the best way to start off the day!

Another day in paradise…

Good morning 6:15am.

Ala Moana waist high and strong off shore winds.

Diamond Head head high and wild.

Strong trade winds at 30mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and huge rainbows.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!