i taught this kid Izumo-kun how to surf when he was 10 years old.  that was 2 years ago and he did great.  now, he’s older, wiser, and even greater!   this was his very first wave.  popped right up and was loving the ride.  much more calmer, relaxed, and confident.   then he started catching waves on his own.  so stoked to see that!   i was riding on the side cheering him on!  Izumo-kun kept riding wave after wave and was full of energy.   i was full of energy watching this kid surfing so good. good job Izumo-kun.  i’m so proud of you being so brave!  you are a very smart kid that has a bright future ahead.  you did a great job of translating Japanese to English for Aunty and me.  if you were over 18, i’d hire you right now!  so keep studying hard in school and the world will be yours…  Naoka and i went for a swim.  and in the ocean, you never know what you will find.  this day, it was love.  this is a good sign of lots of love coming to this cool guy!  as for me, i’m looking at sunsets.  and when the sun finally sets, i’m always thankful of the day that has passed.  the next day is coming and it’s in our hands to do what you love.  i love my family, i love to travel, and i love my freedom.  so now i’m heading to the airport and will arrive in “Surfers Paradise” by tonight.  hope to see you there…

If you look good, you will find treasure all around you…

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore head high and good.

Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and best.

Light winds so clean morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going to Australia!

Have a wonderful day!

want to thank Hara-san for the treats!

i’m still so fascinated with the Japanese presentation.  isn’t the box and wrapping so beautiful?  it’s so hard for me to even throw it away when i’m finished.

this morning, i had a mission.  and that mission was to practice my foiling skills.  and Diamond Head was the best spot for that!

i couldn’t believe how perfect it was!  overhead sets with unbelievable foiling conditions.

after catching that big hollow wave at Bowls the other day, nothing scares me anymore.  i can even do off the lips now!  yeah!!!

then spent the afternoon with the cutest 12 year old kid!   lot’s of photos of Izumo-kun’s session coming soon…

but first, welcome to my world!  after working back to back to back ever since i was 12 years old, i finally know how to balance out my life.  i just head to the my most sacred place in the world.

a place where only things that can jump as high as me are the deers.  haha..

this is my happy jump.  i only jump this high when i’m full of happiness.  notice the only footsteps you will find are mine…

thank you Naoka for sending me these photos you took on our trip.  i’m usually the photographer so it’s hard to really capture the real me.  this is me, this is happiness, and this is my world.  i’m loving life to the fullest and nobody can stop me.  the only thing people can do is to join me…  cheers!