omg, did you see yesterdays sunset???  it was so beautiful!!! i was surfing out at Bowls this morning with Nakahodo-san.  it was super calm looking and really beautiful.  then as i was watching these 2 canoes racing back to the Ala Wai, a freak set started to build.   i was right on the side in the lineup watching everything happen.   then it happens, the biggest set of the year started to build and build.   the first canoe made it out the back, but the second one wasn’t so lucky.   omg!  this is a very dangerous situation.   no escape as the wave swallows up the canoe.   people flying everywhere.  lucky there weren’t any surfers in the way.   then the canoe flipped over and that’s when it got scary.   when accidents happen in the ocean, surfers are the first to the rescue.  thanks to some of the Bowls boys for making sure everything and everybody was ok.  it could have been worst… back to yesterdays fun with the coolest Keinosuke-san family.  this family loves to eat and play!  i always like to take them so a new place because they love new places.  and this place turned out to be a hit!   everybody so happy!   driving home with a milk tea smoothie with tapioca to cool us down.  nice photo Shunosuke-kun!   thank you again to the Keinosuke-san family for the wonderful time, and for the wonderful treats!

 i get to Waikiki and see my family there.  Kelia Moniz asked Mateus to go surfing and he said “no, i want to go with Unko Kirby.”  haha!  sorry World Champion!   this is how i teach kids how to surf.  i take it very slow and try not to make a mistake.  because one mistake could turn this newborn surfer into a land lover if he gets traumatized.   and along the way, i’m documenting everything!   i don’t miss precious moments like this… and along the way, i make sure we’re having fun.  when you hear an old Unko like me yelling, screaming, and making funny faces, even a nervous kid will laugh.  haha… then once you get the kid to laugh, it’s only pure stoke after that… i’ve known this kid for 5 years and play with him all the time.  BUT, i’ve never seen him so happy like this!   such a precious moment for me… practice makes perfect.  so the more we go, the better Mateus will get.  look at Grandpa Mason in the background sharing a wave with his grandson.  priceless… good boy Mateus!  call me anytime and i’ll drop everything to take you surfing!!! it’s been a while since i surfed with Nakahodo-san so it was good to see him yesterday evening.  oh, we surfed in January so that’s not a while right?  haha… i got out my foil drone and went to work.  the waves were absolutely beautiful!   and so is this photo!   taking my foil out and shooting photos gives me so many different options.  i like this angle too.  but this is the shot i’m looking for.   calm, cool, and happy!  good surfing Nakahodo-san!  you must be so tired after catching 20 plus waves.   happy tired!  haha…

Yesterday @ Bowls.  Did you miss it?

Good morning 5:50am.

North shore 2-4′ and good.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!