still have this new South swell hitting Ala Moana and we were there bright and early.  Nakahodo-san on the short board! i just love surfing early in the morning.  watching the sun rising and everybody so happily riding waves.   check out his photo of Chizu-chan!  super cool!   backside bottom turn!  very nice!   Nakahodo-san is learning a lot about surfboards.  and he’s doing that by trying different boards on different days.  this is how you become a well rounded surfer.   good surfing again Nakahodo-san!   Megumi-san on the evening sweet treat!   i knew the waves were coming up.  and i knew the tide will be high right before sunset.  so this was my chance!   i’ve been waiting and training for a day like this.   to foil overhead Bowls when it’s barreling and steep was my goal when i first started foiling.  so when i saw that big set coming in, i turned around, paddled my hardest, and somehow got my 4’8 board on that wave.  i was flying down right as the wave was barreling thick right behind me.  i could feel the energy, i could feel the power, and i could feel the danger.  somehow i made it without getting hurt or hurting anybody.  i haven’t had that kind of excitement for a very long time.  i seriously felt like i took off on a 15′ set at Pipeline!  haha…  can’t wait to go bigger!!! i was wondering how my face looked like catching that barrel at Bowls.  it must have looked something like Mateus’s.  haha… i’m finally taking a couple days off to reconnect with family, friends, and nature.  so by this afternoon, i’ll be playing with the horses and barbecuing some grass fed beef on a BBQ right on the beach!  “Kanikapila” means to get together and play music.  this is what people do on Molokai and it is the coolest sounds to hear.  instruments and vocals with lots of Aloha coming straight from the heart.  i don’t want to miss this either so better get going.  it’s my turn to “slow down.”  haha…

Megumi-san enjoying the surf @ Ala Moana…

Good morning 5:50am.

North shore 2-3′ and clean.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Cloudy morning, then becoming sunny and warm.

Going surfing and flying!

Have a wonderful day!

 omg, did you see yesterdays sunset???  it was so beautiful!!! i was surfing out at Bowls this morning with Nakahodo-san.  it was super calm looking and really beautiful.  then as i was watching these 2 canoes racing back to the Ala Wai, a freak set started to build.   i was right on the side in the lineup watching everything happen.   then it happens, the biggest set of the year started to build and build.   the first canoe made it out the back, but the second one wasn’t so lucky.   omg!  this is a very dangerous situation.   no escape as the wave swallows up the canoe.   people flying everywhere.  lucky there weren’t any surfers in the way.   then the canoe flipped over and that’s when it got scary.   when accidents happen in the ocean, surfers are the first to the rescue.  thanks to some of the Bowls boys for making sure everything and everybody was ok.  it could have been worst… back to yesterdays fun with the coolest Keinosuke-san family.  this family loves to eat and play!  i always like to take them so a new place because they love new places.  and this place turned out to be a hit!   everybody so happy!   driving home with a milk tea smoothie with tapioca to cool us down.  nice photo Shunosuke-kun!   thank you again to the Keinosuke-san family for the wonderful time, and for the wonderful treats!