Big Sesame Balls!

another gorgeous sunset in Honolulu…

i’ve coached Aoi-kun for a few years.   now he’s growing up and getting better on his own.  so busy in school so hardly in the ocean.  so to see him paddle out with confidence, and watch him take off on this beautiful wave was cool.   i kept quiet and just watched to see what this kid was going to do on this perfect wave.

then from behind, i see his whole board and fins flying out.  big sprays too and i was wondering if he made it?  and yes, he did!  i paddled back out with the biggest smile on my face.  and i was hoping everyone saw it.  haha…

back to Dr. Hara-san yesterday.  cool take off and cool rides.

i just love this angle.  it shows you what us surfers see as we’re riding a wave sent by Mother Nature.

and since i didn’t have my foil, i stood tall on the top of the wave and shot down like a drone.  came out pretty cool!

then to my favorite dimsum at Chinatown.

the sesame balls with azuki beans surprises everyone i take there.  even 10 year old Kai-chan was surprised.  haha…

had a great conversation.  Mili-chan is writing a thesis paper on the topic of Japanese/Americans.  so she asked me a few interesting questions.  that topic always reminds me of my Grandparents and whenever i get reminded of my Grandparents, i’m a very happy man!   thank you Dr. Hara-san, Mili-chan, Kyoko-san, and Kai-chan for these amazing years of growth.  always a treat to see you guys…

March 26, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

My fantastic drive to nowhere. This is life…

Good morning 6:45am.

North shore 2-3′ and perfect.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going Molokai Burger.

Have a wonderful day!

Hawaii in 10 Minutes…

 i still can’t believe how beautiful it’s been.  after catching the biggest wave in my foiling career, i was smiling all the way home.   and when i got home, i was dreaming about getting an even bigger one.  Summer is right around the corner so i’m going to keep on training for my first foil barrel!   always so happy to see Dr. Hara-san.  we paddled out this morning and a baby turtle popped up right in front of us.  then it was swimming right under us.  so cute, and so calm.   then right as we got out to the lineup, a set came in Hara-san turned around and caught it.  so perfect! then he paddles back out and a beautiful rainbow pops up behind us.  from the time we paddled out to now was only 10 minutes!  a turtle, a wave, and a rainbow in 10 minutes.   only in Hawaii… i felt like surfing a shortboard today so that’s what i did.  so many options but today, this was the right one.   then went to pick up the wonderful Hara-san family and took them to my secret spots.   tapioca milk tea is very popular in Japan now.  long lines of eager teenagers.  instagram is also popular in Japan now.  i’m sure Mila-chan and Kai-chan’s friends are jealous…  haha.. a very happy family from Shimoda.  Dr. Hara-san knows  how to take care of his girls.  i truly respect that!   good to see you guys growing up each and every year.  keep on smiling…