once again, i asked Asayama-san where he wanted to surf today.  i gave him the options and he chose Pokai Bay!  and when we paddled out, i knew he made the right choice because it was the best on the island!   that’s local knowledge… after we came back from our outer island surf trip, this man is very different.  absolutely no fear!   so cool to see the kids enjoying spring break.   and so cool watching perfect rides passing me by.   and so cool watching old timer locals still ripping.   and so cool watching young time surfers learning how to rip. and so cool watching Asayama-san going with the flow and enjoying every moment in life.   Asayama-san was the oldest surfer out today and rode the longest waves.  total inspiration for us all… then we went to eat some Filipino style lunch in Waipahu.  i love this place!   grilled squid… and grilled bbq pork.  thank you Asayama-san for the amazing day of surf, food, coffee, and laughs.   see you tomorrow early morning for your special day in life…

This morning on the Wild West side of Oahu!   Perfect weather, perfect waves, and perfect rides.

Surf your Dream…

 after our outer island trip and all of the ocean experiences this man has overcome, there is no wave big enough to scare Asayama-san.   no matter the size or location, when he paddles, he’s 100% committed.  this is what you call total commitment!   and getting to his feet is just as fast as a young teenager pro surfer.  it’s actually even faster than my popping up… took my foil out and did a couple loops around our spot.  then everybody left and it was just the two of us.   then i seen the golden set of the day coming so i told Asayama-san to “GO!”  and like this man always does, he GOES!   then i pop up on my foil and ride behind this young man.  of course yelling all the way.  haha.. then i speed up in front of him, set my camera a little lower to get a different angle, and here it is.  we both went out to Diamond Head to get this specific kind of photo.  mission accomplished!   we paddle in two very happy little boys.  our recent outer island trip not only made us smarter, it made us closer.  Asayama-san doesn’t believe me when i tell him he has a fan club.  i know lots of people that admire and are totally inspired by him.  including me… then we went to take an afternoon nap at the pools edge… then i told Asayama-san, “hey, there are probably a lot of people that hate us right now.  we shouldn’t be having this much fun.”  haha..  in our world, the word “hate” isn’t even in our minds…  it’s all about living life to the fullest…very strong, very confident, and very funny.  everybody loves Asayama-san!