Fan Club Day

i always stress to people that it’s always good to surf with other surfers.  it just brings out the best in you.  and this day, Asayama-san and Tomami-san proved it by surfing at their highest level.

Tomami-san paddled out first, went all the way to the outside, turned around, and caught this wave!

as she passed me, i could see her smiling all the way.

then Asayama-san turned on his switch and just started charging big waves.  look at his bottom turn?  can you believe he’s going to be 19 years old?  haha…

this is a photo of a very confident man being very calm.  i can’t tell you how happy i am to see this!

then it was Tomami-san’s turn and she just went for it on a big one.  super stable and surfing super good.

such a very excited and happy person.  Tomami-san can turn anyones bad day into a good one.  just her positive vibe rubs off on all of us.  in the beginning, Tomami-san was a big fan of Asayama-san.  in the end, Asayama-san became a big fan of Tomami-san.  this is what surfing is all about…

then look who paddles out?  Kelia Moniz!  omg, Asayama-san was so happy to see his hero!   and Kelia was just as happy to see hers too!

it’s crazy to think of the kind of connection Kelia and I have.   i never call or text her, but we bump into each other at the right places at the perfect times.  things between us are never planned, it just happens for a reason.  and the reason was this!

then after seeing Kelia, Asayama-san turned up the switch one more level.  i couldn’t believe how good he was surfing!   what an amazing day in Hawaii for all of us!!!

Kelia’s surfing is so graceful, so peaceful, and so beautiful.  once she takes off on a wave, all heads turn to her as people watch in awe.   at times, i want to yell out “hey everybody, that’s my Niece!!!”  haha…  can’t help by being a very proud Uncle…

March 13, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Kelia Moniz yesterday @ Ala Moana Bowls…

Good morning 5:50am.

North shore 2-3′ and good.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and very warm.

Going surfing 3 rounds.

Have a wonderful day!

Want a free Pet?

 first want to start by saying thank you to Hattori-san for the Kyoto treats!  then want to thank Kurosawa-san for the sweet chocolates!   then want to thank Asayama-san for planning our day today.  he said he wanted to surf at our secret spot in the morning again.  only 2 guys out and perfect waves so he made the right choice.   smiling and taking off on head high waves is how to keep calm.   amazing session Asayama-san.  everyday your surfing is getting better and better.  so is your smile… and thank you too for choosing where to eat for lunch.  a hot pastrami sandwich with minestrone soup is my favorite.  i had plans to take Tomami-san surfing this afternoon.  Tomami-san is a big fan of Asayama-san so she really wanted to meet him someday.  and that someday was today!   we had the most amazing session ever!   all the talking, all the surfing, and all the laughing, it couldn’t have been any better.  photos of our amazing session coming soon.  remember that Japanese mouse trap i bought a month ago?  well, i’ve been trying to catch a little mouse in my attic for a long time.  and guess what?  it finally took the cheese in the trap and got stuck inside.  it didn’t turn out to be a little mouse.  it was a huge rat!!!  omg, this rat was living in my house for the past few months?  now i have a new pet.  does anyone want him for free?  if so, come and get him…