had a great time driving around the East side of the island.  always so beautiful!   we stopped at places to just sit on the beach and relax.  why not right?  then watched this Hawaiian monk seal swimming around with the surfers.   then went to pick up some special order Lilikoi Butter.  the best ever!   i have no idea how Asayama-san is going to take all this back to Japan??? then stopped by my power spot.  as much as this spot gives me power, it also takes so many lives.  the ocean looks deceiving until it wakes up.  so when we pulled up and i saw tourists swimming that shouldn’t be there in the ocean, i told Asayama-san to just watch carefully.   i already knew they were in trouble and would have a hard time getting back up.  like always, i just watch until i really have to jump in and help.   i seen 2 ladies with total fear on their face.  i knew they were about to panic so i told Asayama-san to watch their face.  it’s the face of fearing death.  wide open blood shot eyes, heavy breathing, and body frozen from fear.   after he saw it with his own eyes, i told him “hey, that’s how you use to look at waist high Bowls.  now you know what you looked like.  and now you know what not to do, which is to panic…”   he totally understood…  it could have been a tragic day for these tourists.  there are no lifeguards here so if it wasn’t for the 5 guys that helped them up, they might have been sent back to the mainland in bodybags.  it’s happened way too many times here.   look at this amazing photo!!!  it has to be the most beautiful photo i’ve ever seen.  this young kid Leroy Bellet actually takes off behind with his camera and shoots from deeper in the barrel.  something like this takes freaking commitment and skill.  and something like this is what i want to do myself, but from my foil!   now i have a new dream so don’t be surprised if you see me behind you with my foil.  and please don’t fall or else that dream will turn into a nightmare…

No rain and sun, no Rainbows…

Good morning 5:40am.

North shore 2-4′ and good.

Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and good.

Diamond Head shoulder to head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Asayama-san wanted to check out our secret spot again so that’s where we went.  nobody was out and the waves were peeling perfect again!   bigger and better rides than yesterday!

and when you fall, you just get back up.

and when you get back up after a big wipeout, you just laugh.  this is called calmness…

then paddle back out and get a bigger one.

ride it to the end and call it a day.  i was amazed how calm this young man was today…

us hungry surfers were so hungry so we went to our local spot.  prime rib for two please!  Asayama-san’s meat was much more thicker than mine and he ate it all!

then we got the bonus piece of watermelon!

if you go to any beach or park and see mismatched slippers.  that’s us!

came home and played with my nieces.  these kids bring joy to my life!  and when they don’t listen or start crying, i just take them home.  so easy.  haha.