Keep calm and enjoy the moment…

Good morning 6:10am.

North shore 2-4′ and coming up.  North/East swell building.

Ala Moana knee high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.  Stronger this afternoon.

Sunny and cool.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 had such a great time with Father and Daughter this morning.  Kaoru-chan surfing for her first time, and Kouta-san surfing for the past 50 years.  yes, i said 50 years!!!  Kouta-san is the kind of surfer i respect very much.  surfing for half a decade and still loving it.  started out at 20 years old and never gave it up.  watching him on the shortboard really inspired me today… Kaoru-chan on her very first wave of her life!  she rode so many long waves and kept on coming back out for more.   amazing energy!   imagine getting a passport, going abroad for the first time, and landing in Hawaii?  i’m sure Kouta-san was enjoying this moment in the calm ocean watching the canoes going by… and riding waves into Diamond Head.  it goes to show you that it’s never to late to come to Hawaii!   Kouta-san is 70 years old young.  i was so happy to take him and his daughter surfing in Hawaii for their first time.  and i was also happy to hear his stories about Japan’s surfing culture back in the 1970’s.  the stories about the “Crazy Family” of Tokyo surfers.  be back later to tell you more about it… then took this wonderful family to a wonderful lunch… spicy seafood noodle soup.  the best on the island. then picked up the boys for an afternoon session.  Hattori-san and Kundo-san loving life on the longboard…a few people asked how my cut is doing.  well, it’s been over 2 months and it’s still not fully healed.  give me another few weeks and it should be all good again…  thanks for asking.

 yesterday, i took Seira-chan long boarding.  i try my best to explain things before we go out, but sometimes you just have to learn by making mistakes.  so when she was having a hard time in the beginning, i just sat back and watched to see how she would handle it.   it’s kind of like going backwards.  kind of like being disconnected from the ocean.  some people get frustrated, some people quit, but not Seira-chan.  i told her to reconnect and that’s exactly what she did.  it’s really hard to jump off a short board and ride a longboard.  i remember being frustrated in the beginning too.  it’s just so different… this wave is when i felt that Seira-chan reconnected herself to the ocean.  i was so happy to see that happen right in front of me.   then she got better and better by each wave she rode. before we paddled out, i taught Seira-chan how to do a cross step on the beach. but i told her not to do it until she’s ready.   then as i seen her riding this beautiful wave, i thought it was the time.   so i yelled “cross step!!!!”  and yup, she did it!!!   this is freaking perfect style!   i got the double peace sign which usually means everything is so fine!  good job girl!   the lesson today was reconnecting yourself to the sea.  job well done!  then i got home after a very long day and seen Kaira again.  we read a book and i fell asleep.  haha…